Seafood curries & fruit bat pies: culinary adventures in the Seychelles

The Seychelles is made up of 115 islands, of which Mahé is the largest and where the capital, Victoria, is situated - the starting point of our five-day visit to the Indian Ocean islands.

Palm-fringed beaches and the crystal-clear aquamarine sea make a visit to the islands memorable, almost surreal, as I discovered that the images used to promote the Seychelles are for real.

Over 60 beaches on Mahé boast the softest sand, warm water and gentle seas with boats and yachts bobbing on the ocean. Swimming is a must.

All beaches on the islands are open to all and because there are so many, they're rarely crowded and mostly free of litter.

Bean Vallon Bay, our first stop, is a large circular bay and a popular spot for tourists. The beachfront is lined with hotels.

Catch a ferry out to La Dique island - the fourth largest - as we did, and discover the most recognised and photographed Anse Source d'Argent beach that stretches for miles along the coast framed by tall granite boulders and palm trees. The island is popular for weddings.

One of the most enjoyable and popular ways to explore the islands - and especially La Digue - is on a bicycle. Unlike Mahé the island is relatively flat, with tree-lined avenues that hug the coastline. And finding a bicycle is easy to do with a couple of rental outlets just a few steps from the harbour.

It's a beautiful trip if you can multitask. You have to watch the road, miss the other cyclists and soak up the coastline at the same time - and manage a 13km route as I did, only just.

Cycling is far from the only adventure to be had in the Seychelles. For adventurous eaters, the islands are a foodie's paradise.

Here are some of the culinary highlights from our trip:

RUM AND FINE DINING

It's a marriage made in heaven - a rum distillery, Takamaka, and one of Mahé's top-rated restaurants, La Grande Maison, together on the historic site of a plantation house built in 1792. It has been meticulously restored by the d'Offay family and is definitely worth a visit.

You can tour the distillery, taste their excellent rums and enjoy a superb meal. Chef Christelle Verheyden believes in using the best local ingredients (much of the food on the islands is imported) and local suppliers in creating her interesting menus, which change regularly.

Sitting on the large verandah we enjoyed octopus salad and, gingerly, a first for all, fruit bat pastille, made from the sweet meat of the Seychelles fruit bat, deboned and simmered till tender and baked in phyllo pastry. Delicious.

Verheyden is famous for her delicasy bouillabaise, a rich broth of fresh seafood, and served with rouille, croutons topped with garlic mayonnaise.

BRUSHING UP ON COOKING SKILLS

"As soon as I got into the kitchen I knew I wanted to be there," said chef Erryl Morel who teaches at the Seychelles Tourism Academy, La Misere on Mahé.

Established in 2007 by the ministry of education, it is perched on a hill, with spectacular views over the west coast of Mahé Bay and is the only institution in the Seychelles where students can train in all aspects of hospitality and tourism, the main source of revenue for Seychelles.

Aprons on, we chopped, stirred and fried under the guidance of chef Morel preparing two seafood dishes - bonito (a local fish) balls in a rich tomato sauce and a hot fresh tuna curry, the meal of the day.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNECTIONS

You are not far from home in the Seychelles considering the number of South Africans living on the islands.

Enjoying a travelling dinner at Mahé's Constance Ephelia Resort, over a bowl of authentic Thai tom yum soup, loaded with succulent prawns, there was no mistaking fellow countryman Lindokuhle Buthelezi, sommelier for Constance Hotels.

"My journey as a sommelier started 12 years ago when I finished school and worked as a runner at the Casalinga restaurant in Johannesburg. I moved to the bar and learnt how to serve drinks, make cocktails and overlook the wine cellar. Later I completed a sommelier diploma course and became the first qualified sommelier for the restaurant," ," says Buthelezi.

"In 2011 I was offered an opportunity to work in the Seychelles where I've been living for more than six years now - and am loving the experience."

He adds that he's very proud of South African winemakers "as they make outstanding wines that are really appreciated by guests who come here from around the world".

BEACH PARTY

In the Seychelles it doesn't take much to make a party and the Raffles Hotel team on Praslin Island pulled out all the stops on our last day.

Sous chef Rakesh Pultee had brought the kitchen to the beach, with the waves lapping behind him.

He made do with a table, a couple of induction cookers, pots, pans, utensils and the ingredients for lunch - snapper curry, coconut rice and palm heart salad (also known as millionaire salad).

It is a melange of interesting flavours, with fresh slices of palm heart, tomato, papaya, avocado and smoked marlin tossed together in Pultee's unusual passion-fruit dressing.

Sipping on cocktails we watched, stirred occasionally, soaked up the aromas and the expertise of chef Pultee then sat down to the feast, ending with a Seychelles speciality, la daube, a mixture of cubes of sweet potato, cassava or green plantain, cooked in a spicy coconut milk flavoured with cardamom, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla. Yum.

• Hilary Biller and photographer Alaister Russell were guests of Seychelles Tourism. Visit seychelles.travel