Being stoned by an orphan chimpanzee called Woran was one the most memorable holiday experiences I’ve had in a very long time. It’s unforgettable, that moment when a small rock is lobbed at you and, thankfully, gets caught in the net that’s there precisely to protect you from the errant chimp teenager.
I was in Sierra Leone at Tacugama, a sanctuary for chimps in the Western Area Peninsula National Park, on the outskirts of the capital, Freetown. Many of the chimps here are orphans rescued after their mothers were killed (illegally) for bush meat.
Chimp babies, like human babies, need their mothers and communities to raise them. They are only considered adults at 14.Tacugama, founded in 1995, is a remarkable place, populated with close to 100 chimpanzees and actively engaged in such good deeds as community outreach, field research, and conservation education.
Loud screeching welcomed us as we began our tour, walking along convoluted paths through the forest dotted with camps and enclosures.
At the fence of one camp, two adult chimps, Tito and Chica, seemed to be in grunting conversation with a young man in a white coat. Izzy Hirji, I discovered, is a Canadian vet whose speciality is primates. He returned to Africa — his family were kicked out of Uganda by Idi Amin in 1972 — specifically to take care of the chimpanzees.Izzy says his love of animals dates back to his childhood and that, while he’d always wanted to be a vet, his love for primates began when he met primatologist Jane Goodall.
He says he was so inspired by her after a chance meeting in Toronto that he changed direction, specialised in primates, and returned to Africa to work with them. One has to admire such dedication, especially when life in Sierra Leone often means a bucket shower and few creature comforts.
But he says it’s a privilege to care for this vulnerable species. In the adjoining camp, a large group of young chimps — teenagers, the guide told us — climbed poles, teased each other and played games of tag and touch that were remarkably recognisable. I was reminded of a nursery school, watching children at play. I wondered aloud why the nets were there.For your protection, the guide said, which was when Woran threw his rock at me.I stepped back on the wooden platform, alarmed but also amused as the scamp who’d hurled the stone shrieked with laughter at my surprise. To add insult, Woran mimicked my reaction and mocked me by rubbing the top of his head and pointing.
“The Notebook” is about chance meetings and unforgettable encounters people have had on their travels. Mail your story — no more than 400 words —with the word Notebook in the subject line. If published, you win R500. Mail travelmag@sundaytimes.co.za..