Don't leave Turkey without tasting these 5 bites

Travelling through Turkey works up an Ottoman-sized appetite. Happily, you won't ever go hungry, writes Richard Holmes

07 April 2019 - 00:00 By Richard Holmes

DON'T SKIP BREAKFAST
Forget about stale toast or anodyne cereals; Turkish breakfasts are a triumph.
A typical Turkish kahvalti offers a generous spread of cheeses, bread, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, honey and olives. Hot dishes could include delicious menemen - scrambled eggs with tomato and peppers - or gözleme, a savoury flatbread filled with cheese, potato or spinach.
If your hotel doesn't offer a decent breakfast, head for Istanbul's historic district of Besiktas, where Breakfast Street is lined with cafés open from before dawn.
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NO DODGY KEBABSThe Turkish kebap goes far beyond a simple stick of spinning meat from a take-away stall. Here, it's elevated to regional hero, with each region of Turkey adding its own spin.In Istanbul, the classic option is an Iskender Kebap, the meat piled onto pita bread with tomato sauce, fresh tomato and yoghurt. For the original, head to Kebapci Iskender in Besiktas, where a plate will cost you TRY33 (about R85).
LAY ON THE LAHMACUN
Whether for a street snack or cheapskate supper, this is a must-try in Turkey. Piping-hot flatbread is covered with minced lamb, sometimes beef, and topped with onions and fresh coriander. Guide books dub this local classic a "Turkish pizza".
PERFECT PASTRIES
You'll find börek clear across Turkey, and this humble phyllo pastry traces its lineage right back to the Ottoman Empire. Börek comes in all shapes, sizes and fillings, from Kurdish-influenced Küt böregi, drenched in butter and powdered sugar, to squares of Su böregi, layered with feta and parsley.
SIP ON LION'S MILK
When in Rome, right? Well, when in Turkey, be sure to make raki your favourite tipple. Like French pastis or Greek ouzo, raki is made from distilled grapes flavoured with aniseed. In Turkey, raki is typically diluted 50/50 with water, turning the drink cloudy. Little wonder its local nickname is the Lion's Milk.
Locals will often gather friends and family in local taverns, called meyhanes, to enjoy raki over an extended dinner of hot and cold mezze. The gathering is known as a cilingir sofrasi, or "locksmith's table", for its ability to unlock conversation.
LOCAL TIP: When clinking glasses to "cheers", the local tradition is to touch the bottom - not the top - of the glasses together...

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