Three must-see Pretoria attractions show what it means to be South African

Unless you call it home, Pretoria is one of the most overlooked South African cities, particularly in terms of tourism. It may not have the holiday vibes of Durban, the gritty X-factor of Joburg, or the cool kid on the block reputation of Cape Town, but if you take the time to uncover it, you’ll discover a nuanced narrative of what it means to be South African: past, present, and future.  

1. VOORTREKKER MONUMENT

Described on its website as a “cultural home for the Afrikaner” and regarded by many as a symbol of Afrikaner dominance, the Voortrekker Monument is a site of controversy.

It was unveiled in 1949 in commemoration of the Voortrekkers who set out on the Great Trek from the Cape Colony and became a central point for Afrikaner celebrations on the Day of the Vow (December 16, now known as The Day of Reconciliation), which commemorates the 1838 Voortrekker victory over the Zulus at the Battle of Blood River.

In 2011 it became the first Afrikaans monument to be declared a National Heritage Site since the dawn of the country's democracy. Then-minister of arts and culture Paul Mashatile called it a milestone in SA’s journey to becoming a nation that is “united in its diversity”.

Inside the monument visitors can trace the history of the Voortrekkers along a 92m marble frieze — one of the biggest in the world — and a museum exhibit. A highlight is to climb the 299 stairs to the top with its sweeping views over Pretoria (there is a lift, too).

Visitors can picnic on the 240ha nature reserve, explore the indigenous garden, or visit the SADF Wall of Remembrance in memory of members of the South African Defence Force who lost their lives in service between 1961 and 1994.

More recently, a number of outdoor activities run by Adventure Zone have broadened the appeal of a visit to the monument and have started drawing crowds who otherwise might not have made the monument a destination.

The scenic 3km, 5.6km, and 10km hiking trails cost R80 per person and wind through the reserve between the resident zebra and buck and take in beautiful views of the surrounds.

Other activities include archery, quad biking, djembe drumming and specialised team building activities. Visit adventurezone.co.za.  

• The Voortrekker Monument is open Monday to Sunday from 8am to 4pm. Tour guides can be arranged in advance. Tickets start from R18 for children and R36 for adults and all visitors need to pay a R20 heritage fee per car at the gate. Visit vtm.org.za.

2. UNION BUILDINGS

If Pretoria acts as the executive capital of SA, then the Union Buildings are where the heart of SA lies: it is home to the official seat of government.

Designed in 1910 with the formation of the union of SA, the Union Buildings have witnessed the unfolding of the country’s history. Two of the most noteworthy instances include the march of 20,000 women on August 9 1956 to protest against apartheid's pass laws — a day we commemorate as Women’s Day — and the inauguration of Nelson Mandela as SA’s first democratically elected president.

Since the birth of our democracy, it has remained an important destination for protesters hoping to draw the president’s attention. Unbeknown to many, a peaceful protest has been underway for more than three years on these very lawns, where a small group of Khoisan have been camping out in the hopes of being granted an audience with the president to plead their case.

They are asking to be recognised as the first people of SA, for the Khoekhoegowab language to be made an official language, to be classified as Khoisan and not “coloured”, and for the return of their ancestral land.  

Visitors are unfortunately not permitted to enter the Union Buildings but they are free to explore the gardens where glorious, purple-strewn views of the city unfold during Jacaranda season.

There are a number of statues dotted around the grounds but the most iconic is the 9m statue of Nelson Mandela, which was unveiled after his death in 2013.

Don’t forget to snap your selfie with Madiba, and do stop to chat with the Khoisan protesters. If you feel moved by their pleas, you can sign their petition.

• The parking area with access to the public gardens is open Monday to Sunday from 5am to 11pm. Parking and entrance is free.

3. FREEDOM PARK

An outcome of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, Freedom Park was opened in 2007 and serves as a memorial for all those who sacrificed their lives for freedom in SA.

The park is constantly evolving, with two more elements in the pipeline. Five  main themes are prominent in the various sites and memorials already unveiled in the park: culture, heritage, history, indigenous knowledge and spirituality.

Some of the elements you’ll discover on a visit include the sacred, spiritual space of the Isivivane; an Uitspanplek (picnic site) honouring Ingrid Jonker’s Die Kind; and a museum that spans 3.6 billion years of the formation of humans in an attempt to acknowledge the common ancestry of humanity.

Named //hapo, the museum gets its name from a Khoi proverb which reads: “//hapo ge //hapo tama//hapo hasib dis tamas kai bo”, which translates as “a dream is not a dream until shared by the entire community”.

The Wall of Names is a memorial that includes the names of people who fought for freedom in the eight major conflicts which helped shape SA, from WW1 through the South African War, and the liberation struggle. Names on the wall belong to political activists, writers, and even artists.

The most recognisable feature of the park is the semicircle of 200 reeds. Often mistaken for flagpoles rising from the suburb of Salvokop as you're driving along the highway, they signify SA’s rebirth as a nation.

To fully understand the symbolism and significance of the park, it is advisable to go on a guided tour.

During my visit, our guide, Badresh Kara, pointed out a number of details I would have otherwise missed, including the road that connects Freedom Park with the nature reserve on which the Voortrekker Monument has been built. Although it is not open to the public, it serves as a symbolic reminder of unity.

Go with an open mind and you'll find that the park is nuanced, layered and, above all, a beautiful tribute to humanity, serving as a space to reflect on the past and look to the future with compassion, tolerance, and kindness.

• Freedom Park is open daily from 8am to 5pm and public tours take place at 9am, 12pm, and 3pm. Tickets start from R45 and can be purchased online via freedompark.co.za.

THE KHOISAN AT THE UNION BUILDINGS

In November 2018 King Khoisan SA, the self-proclaimed king of the Khoisan, walked from Gqeberha to the Union Buildings to hand over a memorandum to government asking for four things: to be recognised as the first people of SA, for the Khoekhoegowab language to be made an official language, to be classified as Khoisan and not “coloured”, and for the return of their ancestral land.  

This was the second time the king had walked to the Union Buildings. The first time was in 2017, when he went on a hunger strike for 17 days before being seen by Cyril Ramaphosa, who was then deputy president.

This time round they decided they would not leave until they felt their demands had been given adequate attention from government. The king, and six others who joined him, set up camp on the grounds. Three years on, they’re still waiting for an audience with the president.

The king's wife, who introduces herself only as Cynthia, left behind two children when she joined him in December 2018 for what she thought would be a holiday. “It’s three years now. Our lives have literally been placed on hold,” she says.

“It’s almost two years now that we don’t have lights,” says Cynthia. “We’re having a tough time. Look at our place. The rain comes, the wind comes, we rebuild, we break down. This is how it goes every day. It’s a struggle.”

Their only source of water in their camp is a sprinkler next to their tents and they use the public toilets on the premises. As part of their camp — which flanks the statue of Nelson Mandela — they built a boma to keep them warm on cold nights, and lockdown necessitated the planting of a garden as a source of food.

In January, King Khoisan was arrested for cultivating cannabis on the grounds and allegedly dealing in drugs.

Queen Cynthia says they have never sold cannabis to anyone and that they use it for medicinal purposes. They believe it was a ploy by government in an effort to remove them from the premises.

King Khoisan was released on bail and will appear in court on March 29.