Trekking to Everest Base Camp: what it's really like and how you can do it too

WHAT IS BASE CAMP?

A campsite at the foot of Mount Everest, at an altitude of 5,364m. There are two, located on opposite sides of the mountain: South Base Camp is in Nepal and North Base Camp is in Tibet, China. Climbers usually spend several days there adjusting to the altitude before attempting to summit Everest (8,849m).  

The trek to Nepal's Base Camp is one of the most popular in the Himalayas, undertaken by thousands each year. The 120km round trip takes travellers to the very heart of the sherpa community — a Nepalese ethnic group well known for their high-altitude competencies and overall gregariousness — and into the Khumbu Valley.

It starts in the town of Lukla, whose Tenzing-Hillary Airport is known as the world’s most dangerous due to its short, uphill runway. Most people take 10-11 days to reach base camp and three to four days to descend. 

HOW TOUGH IS THE TREK?

This is a hike, not a climb, and there are no ropes involved or technical skills required. If you’re reasonably fit you should manage, but you will be walking for up to nine hours a day across steep terrain.

Every day you will gain altitude and lose it again as you drop into a valley or river crossing.  Then you’ll face a steep uphill to get back to where you were. There is no gradual ascent. The trails are well maintained but there are some rocky and treacherous areas.

What makes it especially difficult is the long periods of walking combined with the lack of oxygen, extreme weather, and basic lodgings. I climbed Kilimanjaro in 2018 and Everest Base Camp was far more strenuous than Africa's highest mountain.

My desire to be up in the mountains was stronger than anything I feared, though, and I knew I just had to woman up and deal with it. 

IS IT DANGEROUS?

Somewhat. There could be rock or mud slides or avalanches. There are a few precipitous drops and you could be pushed off the path by yak or mule trains (they have right of way). 

Altitude sickness — which can affect anyone above 2,500m — could ruin your trek. There’s no way of knowing who it will target, and your fitness has no bearing. If anything, studies show that younger, more muscular men are most likely to be affected.  Usually, there will be two full acclimatisation days on the itinerary — one in Namche Bazaar and another in Dingboche or Lobuche. These days aren’t for resting but for climbing high and then descending to sleep at lower altitudes, a practice known to help the body acclimatise to higher elevations.

Our trip had several active rest days — at 3,000m, 4,000m and 5,000m — which gave our bodies a chance to catch up with the change in air pressure. Drinking tons of water is another trick, as is taking a pill called Diamox. They say garlic soup, available almost everywhere on the trek, also helps. And let the sherpa guide the pace. Most guides carry a supply of oxygen in case of emergencies.

I had no real problems with altitude, but a lot of people end up being choppered out. Unfortunately, one of our team presented with AMS (acute mountain sickness) but was extracted safely. 

While I had no serious problems, I still felt the effects of altitude acutely. Breathing is hard and I found my sleep was disturbed by my having to take deep breaths often. The tingling extremities of hypoxia came and went, but I had no headaches or other symptoms that made me think I should go down to lower altitude immediately.

Along the route, you will find lodges and smaller accommodations known as tea-houses. Most are comfortable but basic.  Rooms — usually hardboard cubicles with no sound or heat insulation — generally have two single beds with thin, foam mattresses. Bedding is provided but don’t expect it to be washed between customers.

I used my sleeping bag and inner at each teahouse. Some have in-room heating, while others are warmed by a central stove that’s kept alight in the evenings. Some places offer hot showers, but most only offer cold. You can charge your devices at most overnight stops, though sometimes at extra cost.  You can get rooms with attached bathrooms, but usually you share a toilet, which may be squat or Western. 

I loved these simple lodges and tea-houses, which offered authentic experiences with a great sense of local living.

FOOD

Dining is communal at the tea-houses, and there is always a wide variety. Options include everything from typical Nepali dal-bhat (lentils and rice), soups, snacks, momos (dumplings) and fried rice, to Chinese and continental dishes such as noodles, spaghetti, spring rolls and steak.

Food prices rise with the altitude, which is a no-brainer since everything must be transported via porters, mules, yaks, or helicopter, after being flown in to Lukla from Kathmandu. 

COSTS

Costs vary widely. The best all-inclusive packages are around $2,500 (about R41,200) but don't let that deter you from the trip of a lifetime. There are less expensive options, and self-trekking and carrying your own gear is also doable as the route is clearly marked.

Porters are essential — very much the superheroes of the expedition. They transport the bulk of most trekkers’ gear from camp to camp. Porters will carry one rucksack or duffel bag per hiker, usually with a weight limit of 10kg-15kg each. That leaves you to only carry what you need for the day.

IS IT WORTH IT? 

We began the walk on March 21, in early spring, and took 11 days to get to base camp. I’ve wanted to stand at the foot of Everest for the past 20 years, and when I did, I cried uncontrollably with mixed emotions of joy, sadness and gratitude. There it was, the tallest mountain on Earth, staring right back at me — the most beautiful sight I have ever seen.

• Sadly, on July 18 Dorjee Sherpa took his last breath on Earth. He will be remembered for his infectious laughter, compassion and joyous nature by his family, friends, community and those he guided up the mountains. Go well friend and rest easy.

SECRETS FOR A SUCCESSFUL TREK

Take your time

If you’re slow, go slowly.  Let the hares race on. I aimed to never increase my heart rate because recovery in such little oxygen took too long (once we were above 5,000m, turning over in bed made me breathless). It's cool to be the tortoise (well, that’s what I told myself) and you’ll likely acclimatise better. “One step at a time, one breath at a time” was my strategy. 

Invest in a backpack

I hardly noticed my backpack after the first day or two. I was carrying around 10kg and was glad I’d invested in a good backpack. It made all the difference to a good posture while walking.