Take a ‘sofa safari’ at this luxury lodge where the animals come to you

Five-star Jamala Madikwe's busy watering hole means you can laze on the deck with a G&T in hand and watch a David Attenborough doccie unfold before you

14 August 2022 - 00:03
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The picturesque surroundings at Jamala Madikwe.
The picturesque surroundings at Jamala Madikwe.
Image: Jamala Madikwe

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

In estate-agent jargon a property is all about location, location, location and with the 75,000ha Madikwe Game Reserve (the fifth-largest in SA) just more than three hours by car from Gauteng, it is fast becoming the safari hotspot for local and international tourists alike. Tourists can take a relaxed drive to the reserve or a short flight with Federal Air from OR Tambo, which I did recently as part of a media group that visited the luxurious Jamala Madikwe lodge. The trip is a breeze and on a clear day offers fascinating vistas of the landscape from the small plane.

The reserve is in the North West and lies on the Botswana border between Lowveld bushveld and Kalahari thornveld.  A joint venture between the state, private sector and local communities,  it was decided in the early '90s to use the area as a national park to help the area and the surrounding communities economically. Operation Phoenix saw game  reintroduced in 1991 with 8,000 animals. Twenty eight species, including the big five plus giraffe — there are plenty — zebra, hyena, wildebeest and the elusive endangered wild dog.  A breeding programme was also started soon after the reserve opened.

Dining under the stars is more romantic at a lodge (than when at home with Eskom).
Dining under the stars is more romantic at a lodge (than when at home with Eskom).
Image: Jamala Madikwe

THE ELLIES COME OUT TO PLAY

The Jamala Madikwe lodge is near a busy watering hole, offering game viewing from its  doorstep and behind the safety of an electric fence. Jamala aptly describes it as a “sofa safari” offering a bird's-eye view of game while sitting comfortably on the deck.  With a gin and tonic in hand, it's like watching a David Attenborough doccie unfold.

In other words, it's a real treat. Herds of elephant head to the water from all directions, allowing one to witness their antics first hand - from squabbling over who gets the right to drink from the spring to watching the babies frolic in the water. There is also plenty of other game mingling in between the grey herbivores. This kind of  sofa safari feels like a real bonus,  alongside the guided morning and afternoon game drives that ensure visitors  get to see the best the reserve has to offer.

The luxurious double bed says it all about the well-appointed bedroom.
The luxurious double bed says it all about the well-appointed bedroom.
Image: Jamala Madikwe

SHEER LUXURY

One international  guest recently described Jamala as the “Tina Turner of game lodges, simply the best”.  It is totally luxurious;  small enough that you feel like a VIP guest, yet private enough to make you  feel like you are the only one at the lodge. There are five free-standing villas, each complete with a lounge and fireplace, dining room, study area, huge bathroom and my favourite - a wraparound deck where you can have your own sofa safari, along with an outdoor shower and plunge pool. The huge four-poster double bed was luxuriant, super comfy and as warm as toast  on a cold winter’s night.

FINE DINING IN THE BUSH

Textures of butternut.
Textures of butternut.
Image: Jamala Madikwe
Chicken liver pâté in egg.
Chicken liver pâté in egg.
Image: Jamala Madikwe

GM and executive chef Nico Verster and his team ensure that the dining experience at Jamala, like the game viewing, is unforgettable. As one of the country’s rated chefs, Verster has travelled the world and worked at top boutique hotels and leading lodges. He also has two cookbooks under his belt - the first was Savannah to Sea and his latest, Safaris & Spices, celebrates the best of African cuisine. Apart from his geniality as a host, nothing is too much trouble for Verster and the wonderful staff, and sitting down to dinner is a multi-course gourmet feast.

At dinner, I enjoyed locally sourced eland fillet, cooked to perfection with chermoula-spiced African pap with wilted spinach. Another delightful meal was  the fresh pan-fried salmon with a soft citrus polenta, seasonal veggies and flavoursome gremolata sauce. Being small, they cater to all tastes and special diets. Depending on the weather, dining is  inside next to a roaring log fire or under the stars overlooking the waterhole.

Lazy breakfasts on the deck kick off with bubbles, seasonal fruit, organic yoghurt and hale and hearty main choices - their selection of egg dishes is particularly creative. And in case you are hungry before the afternoon game drive, they serve a sumptuous high tea featuring savoury bites and fabulous bakes so tempting that even the most satiated guest can't resist.

The sun sets over the dining terrace.
The sun sets over the dining terrace.
Image: Jamala Madikwe

BEYOND THE SAFARI

There's more to delight the senses, with a spa offering a variety of beauty treatments, including excellent massages. Next door is a gym and for a bit of R&R there’s a lounge and library at the main lodge with its own fireplace. Don’t miss the opportunity to climb the stairs of the Jamala Madikwe watchtower for extraordinary views of the savannah plains, waterhole and on clear nights the beautiful stars. And if the pool at your villa is too small, there’s a well-positioned large lap pool close to the open-air bar - making it the perfect spot for cooling off on hot days. 

Good news is the reserve is malaria free.

RATES

R7,167.50 per person sharing per night includes meals, all non-alcoholic and soft drinks, water, coffee and tea, wi-fi, two daily game drives and transfers from the landing strip to the lodge.

Excluded: A park entry fee of R240 per person if flying in or R180 per person coming by car. A daily conservation fee of R165 per person per day for adults and R85 for children  under 12. Alcoholic beverages and spa treatments.

Bush Walks cost R1,850 for two guests and must be pre-arranged.

• Hilary Biller was a guest of Jamala Madikwe and flights were courtesy of Federal Air which operate out of OR Tambo.


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