It was the early 1990s and the winding, rutted road from Asmara, capital of Eritrea, to Massawa on the Red Sea was still littered with burnt-out army trucks and vehicles, the result of a brutal war by the Eritreans which ultimately drove Ethiopian strongman Mengistu Haile Mariam from power. Along the way, guerrilla hideouts had become something of a tourist attraction. On the outskirts of Massawa, wooden boxes under bushes contained human limbs still in their army boots. The air was thick with the stench of decaying human flesh...