Weekend Escape: Seaside shell shock therapy

Shanaaz Eggington had a lesson in place names when she ventured up the West Coast

I've travelled the R27 between Cape Town and Elands Bay too many times to remember. We almost always stopped for coffee or to overnight at the better-known tourist towns of Langebaan, Saldanha, Vredenburg and Veldrift.

I've even been to St Helena Bay twice. But somehow I've never made it past the harbour town to a place called Shelley Point, which I always assumed - stupidly - to be named for a woman.

But one cold and crisp Cape winter weekend I finally discovered that Shelley Point was really named after the banks of mussel shells stacked metres deep along the shores of the bay.

My education started when my husband Steve and I took the R27 - better known as the old West Coast Road - on a Sunday morning for a night at the four-star Shelley Point Hotel, Spa & Country Club.

Because it is a mere 90 minutes from Cape Town, we decided on a leisurely drive through fynbos country, enjoying a coffee along the way.

We were in no hurry as we only had to be there by 5pm for our hour-long hydro spa session, followed by dinner later at the Cattle Baron Grill and Bistro, one of the spa's two in-house restaurants.

We arrived in time to enjoy cocktails on the pool terrace while watching the sun set over an immaculate golf course bordered by palm trees. The weather was balmy and beautiful, with not a breath of wind.

"No, we don't get the southeaster here," the waiter said. Next time we'll get to the point much earlier!

It was with some regret that we departed the pool area to enjoy the hydro therapy: sauna, sensation shower and a long session in the Jacuzzi.

We made our way from our elegantly decorated mezzanine suite with its loft bedroom and attractive thatched roof to the restaurant, overlooking the swimming pool.

The waitress greeted me by name when we walked through the door. Turned out she's my namesake and someone I met more than 15 years ago in Cape Town.

Shanaaz - the waitress - explained that the new Bistro-concept from the popular steak ranch franchise offers a more personalised dining experience.

She persuaded me to try the speciality dessert, a crème brûlée, freshly made by the chef every day. It was as great as she said it would be and explained the popularity of the restaurant that only opened a few months ago.

For mains we had traditional Cattle Baron fare, sirloin Nevada and a Baron's steak. Luckily we agreed to share a starter of smoked salmon on rosti, otherwise there would have been no space for the delectable dessert.

Next morning I opted for a very light breakfast to be in time for my back and neck massage plus facial.

While I was being pampered at the wellness centre, Steve tucked into the more substantial buffet breakfast.

When I was done I convinced him to give the massage a go. "You will understand why you have to rub my back so often," I told him. He emerged from the spa with a silly grin on his face.

We had time to explore before leaving, so we went for a walk with the help of a map provided by the hotel.

And there it was ... scribbled on the map, "mussel shell walk". The lightbulb over my head finally went on and I knew I had to do it, there and then.

After some brisk exercise, we came upon the layers of shells lying several metres deep, the result of aeons of wave action. It was glorious strolling on top of the bank of shells, listening to them crunch under our weight as we inhaled the fresh sea air. It must be one of the best stress-relievers I've ever had.

At the end of the mussel bank walk we found ourselves on the outskirts of Britannia Bay, where two surfers were riding the swells.

The day was far too short to explore all the other helpful notes scribbled on the map: pumpkin shell walk; lighthouse; walking/running track with views; long sandy beach; and rock pools.

They will have to wait until the next time.

• For further information contact Shelley Point Hotel, Spa & Country Club on 0227421508 or visit www.shelleypointhotel.co.za.