Highs of the Lowveld

What is it with middle-aged male German tourists and their need to prance about in shorts, socks and open-toe sandals when they are on holiday?

As fashion gaffes go, this just has to rank up there with the classic '70s- style safari suit with the obligatory comb protruding from the khaki sock. Or perhaps men who find it increasingly difficult to come to terms with a receding hairline and feel the need to cover the exposed area with an ill-fitting "rug" that would look more in place on the lounge floor.

And true to form, as a German tour group got off their bus in the Mpumalanga tourist town of Hazyview recently, I counted 17 out of 20 men dressed as if they would be auditioning for a part in a Monty Python skit.

But never mind; after a day of game-viewing in the world-renowned Kruger National Park, which is quite literally on the town's doorstep, they appeared to be enjoying themselves as they made for one of the many restaurants that dot the main street of Hazyview .

The last time I visited Hazyview, it wasn't much more than a sleepy-little dorp. Today it is a bustling town, where a Babel's tower of languages is spoken on its streets.

English, Afrikaans, Sotho and Venda are interspersed with a variety of European dialects, as people discuss what they spotted that day or what they plan to do the next; and there is no shortage of options.

From gold panning in Pilgrim's Rest, a Blyde River boat cruise, elephant experiences, white-water rafting, quad-biking, abseiling, they can move on to the Jane Goodall Institute, where abused chimpanzees from all over Africa are cared for and rehabilitated.

I say rehabilitated, but there is no interaction between visitor and animal because they have become unpredictable and dangerous after years of being subjected to the illegal pet trade and circuses.

Something different, perhaps, is a day trip to neighbouring Mozambique - or more specifically, its capital city, Maputo. Here you can admire Portuguese-inspired architecture, take a walk along the palm-lined avenue Marginal beach-front before stopping off at the open fish market, where you can select your dish and have it cooked over an open fire right in front of you.

If you have the time, a lazy lunch at the legendary Costa do Sol is always a treat and an idyllic way to spend an afternoon before making your way back to the border post (90km away) and a return to your overnight accommodation.

There is a wide variety of accommodation options to cope with the large number of local and international tourists using Hazyview as a springboard to explore the region.

From B&Bs to your traditional hotel chains, from top-end luxury lodges to camp sites, there is something to suit most budgets and needs.

My choice for a short visit was Umbhaba Lodge, just two kilometres from Hazyview's CBD.

The lodge is typical of many in the area. There is a main building housing reception, bar/lounge, conference area and restaurant - which has an adjoining balcony where meals can be enjoyed if weather permits.

When it comes to putting your head down in the evening, there are several options available for a good night's sleep. I was booked into one of the African Tribal Rooms (Masai), which turned out not to be a room at all, but more a house.

A large lounge/dining room area led through to the bedroom with en suite bathroom consisting of sunken bath and a large shower area with his and her's shower heads.

Lovely old sleeper wood is extensively used and, if things hot up too much air-conditioning in the bedroom and ceiling fans will keep things cool.

Open the sliding glass doors and a balcony affords one a view of the dam and the tranquility of a mountain range in the background.

The buffet dinner I had on my first night at Umbhaba was a little disappointing. The selection was a bit limited and, with decidedly cool weather, the taste buds were crying out for a nice soup, stew or curry.

Instead, there were two roasts (beef and pork) - both a tad overcooked - chicken breasts stuffed with pepperdews and a small selection of vegetables.

Breakfasts were better - a nice variety of cereals, yoghurts and fruit, while eggs of your choice - the omelettes are very good - and the usual accompanying dishes, were freshly prepared.

As a lover of jams, I found the home-made paw-paw and ginger an unusual fusion but still a definite winner; and the muffins had been made that same morning.

If there is one piece of advice I can offer to visitors to this region, it is to allow an extra day or two so you can take in all the attractions.

After all, a trip to the Kruger Park is worth a day on its own; and if you're lucky you might even spot a German tourist!!

Our wheels of choice for this weekend away was the Lexus GS250. Economical (8.5l/100km) and luxurious, the GS250's interior must be the envy of many opposition manufacturers. It comes equipped with all the bells and whistles and the materials used ooze class.

Luggage space is incredibly good and, with cruise control the order for the day, it provided an excellent ride.

Inside info

Road conditions

From Jhb/Pta head to Nelspruit on the N4. Then take the R40 to Hazyview. The road is tarred and in good condition. Avoid the R538, which is in a terrible state.

Police presence

Speed traps on the N4.

Traffic flow

No problems but a lot of logging trucks in and around White River.

Fuel and toll budget

Three tolls total R150 each way. For the Lexus GS250 approximately R500 for fuel each way.

Service stations

A fair number along the route.