Snail central

The chef who fed France's elite spills the beans to Henry Samuel

François Mitterrand preferred seafood, Jacques Chirac snails and sauerkraut, Nicolas Sarkozy took cheese off the menu and followed a draconian diet while François Hollande "eats everything".

After almost 40 years in the kitchens of France's presidential palace, outgoing head chef Bernard Vaussion is sharing the dietary secrets of his illustrious patrons.

Vaussion first stepped through the presidential gates in 1974 as an assistant chef. Next week he steps out of those gates for good after catering to the tastes of six French presidents and a range of leaders, from African dictators to Queen Elizabeth.

The acclaimed chef from Sologne said the secret to his longevity was a knack for quickly working out his bosses' tastes. "After each lunch or dinner, I always check the president's plate when it returns to the kitchen. I see what he ate, what he left, and I adapt to his style."

"For Mitterrand, it was always fish and seafood. He loved shellfish and oysters," he said. Vaussion made no mention of the late socialist president's penchant for the ortolan, a tiny songbird that is eaten whole after being drowned in armagnac.

"Sarkozy asked for a lighter cuisine: white meat, fish à la plancha, steamed recipes." To Vaussion's chagrin, the teetotal Mr Sarkozy also took cheese off the menu, "except when Angela Merkel was in town".

Asked if he had anything to do with Hollande's apparently gaining weight since his election last year - his nickname is "flamby" after a caramel crème pudding - the chef replied with diplomacy. "He's not difficult. He likes everything - veal, beef, duck, dishes with sauce. I'm pleased to end with a gourmet." Cheese is now firmly back on the menu. - © The Daily Telegraph, London