Travellers' Tales: Walking meditation

Gina Woodburn takes some time out to wander in Tibet

As I sit in the shady courtyard of the Kathmandu Guest House, the heat and energy of the narrow street outside recedes with every sip of my ice-cold Gorka. I feel my shoulders relax and I take a long, deep breath, my face breaking out into an involuntary grin at my being back in this chaotic city.

Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is the gateway to most hiking trips in Nepal and Tibet. Flights and buses leave daily to transport hikers across the plains of Kathmandu to the lowlands of Chitwan National Park for leisurely hiking or, for the more adventurous, a short and adrenaline-filled flight heads to the heart of the Himalayas.

Tamel, the tourist quarter of the city, is a nest of narrow streets, rickshaws, taxis and the occasional cow happily munching on the greens of the day. Treasures include low-priced hiking gear, sublime local and European food and colourful pashminas and baby yak wool throws. My previous trips have taught me to save my shopping for the end, when I will happily donate just about every piece of clothing in my yak sack to make room for singing bowls and prayer flags to remind me of this bustling hamlet.

A two-hour flight to Lhasa and a one-hour bus drive from the airport to the city centre tumbles us into a bustling, developing city that resembles little of the Tibet I imagined from my reading over the years.

Lhasa is no longer the remote town it once was. The new railway line linking Beijing to Lhasa stands proud as it cuts through the majestic mountain ranges around the city. Cited as the "railway on the rooftop of the world", this two-day train ride now links the community of Tibet to China for relatively easy access.

The initial shock of the strong police presence diminishes as we head for the old Tibetan Quarter. Glass and concrete high-rises are replaced with prayer wheels and beads. The gentle chanting of the Buddhist Tibetans as they walk the Barkhor Circuit allows you to slip into a different world, where happiness is a state of mind and wealth is measured in spiritual richness.

A meeting point for Tibetans each morning, the Barkhor Circuit (or kora) is a meditation completed by Tibetans each day. Walking in a clockwise direction, pilgrims place juniper leaves in large stone sangkangs (incense burners) as they walk the 1km circuit. Locals are welcoming to tourists, with a shy fascination that makes one feel privileged to be included in the experience. The older generation are notably more traditional than the young - couples in their 80s can be seen in traditional clothing, enjoying their daily walk. If you are lucky, one of these stooped, gentle Tibetans will stick their tongue out at you - a greeting similar to a hug.

The Barkhor Circuit ends in Barkhor Square, one of the most well-known landmarks in the city. Armed guards on rooftops surrounding the square, security cameras and police remind of the tensions between Tibetan and Chinese authorities over the years.

On entering the square, expect to go through metal detectors where the main items to be confiscated are lighters - the Tibetans have created burning martyrs of themselves in the square over the years in protest against the government and the degradation of their culture.

While there are reminders of the turbulence and anger of the past, Tibetan life in Lhasa today seems to be one of tolerance and indifference to the authorities, as they happily live their lives in line with their traditions.

After a few days of acclimatisation at 3650m, we are ready to head to the jewel of Lhasa, the Potala Palace. While waiting for the dull headache to subside, we enjoy local delicacies such as yak-meat momos (dumplings), dahl bhat (a lentil and rice curry) and local beer or yak-butter tea. The latter, a milky, buttery tea that is quite salty, is definitely an acquired taste.

Westerners who are homesick for something familiar can enjoy the best lattes and cappuccinos in town at the Summit Café just off Barkhor Square. With its oversized leather couches and almond cookies, the Summit Café is a haven with a speedy wireless connection to the rest of the world.

The Potala has been the home of the Dalai Lama since it was built around 1680, though accounts of the construction differ. It is said that the fifth Dalai Lama died in 1682 and his death was kept a secret for 12 years until the palace could be completed. The Potala now stands regally, its red-and-black façade cascading down to engulf the mountain it encompasses. Getting into the Potala is tricky - it requires a local guide and a specific time to be booked - but the experience is well worth it, giving visitors a feel for the heritage and life of the Dalai Lama. Touring through the many rooms and courtyards, the worn steps and balustrades provide a sombre backdrop to the fact that the current Dalai Lama is not welcome in his home.

As we journey away from Lhasa on the Friendship Highway towards Everest Base Camp, our vistas fill with smaller, traditional villages and sightings of nomads in their large tents and layered clothing. Cities are replaced by small settlements, where traditional homesteads reserve the ground floor for the animals and the upper levels for cooking and living quarters, with thick, black borders painted around each window to ward off evil.

Here it feels like the way of life has not changed for years, affected little by the dramatic evolution of the larger cities.

Monasteries and nunneries abound, where monks and nuns welcome visitors to light a yak-butter candle, watch them as they debate or sit quietly and just be a part of the moment.

A week of travelling brings us to the Monastery of Rongphu and the foothills of Mount Qomolangma, or Mount Everest as it is known to us. With freezing temperatures made worse by the sharpness of the wind, the small monastery offers a dining room that is warm and friendly. After a plate of piping-hot potato chips and chapattis, we head to bed to stare in wonder at the majestic view of the north face of Everest in the distance. It is a moment that makes the day-long journey on a winding dirt track worth every minute - only surpassed the next day by a short walk to the view point overlooking Everest Base Camp.

A few days later, we find ourselves walking across Freedom Bridge as we cross back into Nepal, lost in our own thoughts as we say a silent farewell to the quiet and friendly Tibetans and their uncomplicated lifestyle and greet the agitated bustle of Nepal.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL: Avoid the June-August rainy season. It is very cold in December and January.

GETTING THERE: Jet Airways (jetairways.com) flies between Johannesburg and Kathmandu with flights starting at R9634 for November travel. Expect to pay more from SA to Lhasa - around R18000 via Beijing on SAA (flysaa.com) and Air China. Lhasa and Kathmandu have good taxi services to get around.

VISAS: Nepalese visas can be obtained at the border. A Tibet visa needs to be obtained in advance, easier if travelling with a tour group.

AFFORDABILITY: Daily living is cheaper in Nepal than Tibet but both are reasonable. Cheap and clean accommodation is readily available in both cities.