Restaurant: Mushroom special in De Kloof Pretoria

We use the word "mushroom" loosely. Most of us think of mushrooms as spongy vegetative growths with stalks and round caps.

But there is mush more than this in the room.

Not all "mushrooms" can properly be called that. A case in point is oyster fungus, with only a short, offset stem, generally better known as the oyster mushroom. Even fungi that do not conform to the traditional mushroom shape, such as puffballs or morels, are described as mushrooms.

These delicate fungi have forever been slightly mysterious, with many myths and untruths told about them. The scarcer exotic varieties, though not as costly as saffron, are some of the most expensive food commodities in the world.

Some mushrooms can be cultivated, but there are many more whose delicious secrets will never be commercially available. These creatures simply pop up capriciously as an excellent antidote to the controlled, predictable world in which most of us now live.

The talented and funky young Monché Muller, head chef at De Kloof restaurant in the Waterkloof Golf Estate, loves to work her magic with mushrooms from the humble portobello to her favourite "hen-of-the-woods" (Grifola frondosa).

Muller believes every type of mushroom has its own intricate taste profile and that one should aim to enhance those flavours. But ultimately she loves all mushrooms for their earthy, just-picked headiness, which is why she features them in many forms on the menu at De Kloof.

A recent beer-pairing dinner (to celebrate Oktoberfest) tapped into dreams of autumn mushroom-gathering in north European forests (head for the Jonkershoek forests for a similar experience in South Africa).

The menu consisted of king oyster risotto, portobello espuma, crumbed shimeji, confit enoki in garlic olive oil, sautéed oyster mushrooms, and a porcini mushroom meringue made from Italian meringue with porcini dust - the little cap and stalk sandwiched together with a porcini mousse. There was also thyme-infused jelly and porcini-smoked salt.

The current menu (with delightfully descriptive names such as "Die Skaap" and "Monk's Tail") includes a vegetarian main course called "Kauliflower & Gruyere Kream" (R115), a frothy cauliflower crème from which protrudes a gruyere and phyllo shard. With it are crusty cauliflower croquettes, a smooth and rich wild mushroom purée, pickled cauliflower shavings, confit enoki, cauliflower chips, smoky thyme and chocolate jelly and gruyere "soil".

Should mushrooms not be your thing, there are many intricate dishes to choose from, including a Waldorf salad featuring fennel and apple panna cotta in canneloni (R65), cigar-smoked free-range beef fillet with bone marrow sauce (R169), and green tea cheesecake with litchi and white chocolate sorbet (R78).

This is an understated, masculine-looking restaurant with a carefully chosen wine and beer collection that makes aficionados dance with joy. The red house wine, Black Forest shiraz/merlot from Louis Nel (R129), provided the perfect accompaniment to the deep forest flavours of the cauliflower and mushroom feast.

Located on the verge of the Waterkloof golf course and easily accessible from Johannesburg, De Kloof is one of those gems the capital city tries to keep to itself.

....................................................

Waterkloof Golf Estate, Johan Rissik Drive, Eclipse Road, Pretoria, 0730928562, www.dekloofrestaurant.co.za