5 versatile wines to sip this summer

Joanne Gibson samples wines from Cape farms that also produce olives

Lawrence Durrell describes black olives between the teeth as “a taste older than meat, older than wine. A taste as old as cold water.” Older than meat? I doubt our carnivorous Paleolithic ancestors enjoyed the intolerably bitter fruit straight from the tree. Older than wine? Almost certainly, considering grapes are tasty even before fermentation, whereas olives need to be cured to make them palatable.

Either way, growing grapes and olives together is typical throughout the Mediterranean, whose climate and lifestyle we enjoy to such a similar extent in the Cape. Here are five wines from farms that also produce olives, versatility with food being the other very Mediterranean thing they have in common.

Ayama Leopard Spot White 2013 (R75)*

At Ayama Wines on Slent Farm in the Paardeberg, Italian owners Attilio and Michela Dalpiaz honour the rare Cape leopard with their new Leopard Spot range. The White 2013 is a succulent blend of chenin with a touch of chardonnay and viognier, fairly rich with citrus freshness and nectarine juiciness.

Fairview Nurok 2013 (R110)*

From Fairview in Paarl, also famous for goat’s cheese, comes the Nurok 2013 blend of viognier (47%), chenin blanc (32%), roussanne (18%) and grenache blanc (3%). Recently awarded five stars in the Platter ’s guide, the wine is creamy yet fresh with honey and jasmine on the nose, ripe pear and pineapple flavours on the palate.

Foothills Vineyards Dry Rosé 2013 (R60)*

At Klein Welmoed in Stellenbosch, also home to olive trees grown between the vineyard blocks, wine is bottled under the Foothills Vineyards label. Made from 70% shiraz, the Dry Rosé 2013 is unusual in its inclusion of 17% semillon as well as 13% viognier — and it is bone-dry despite its heady peach blossom nose and bright strawberry fruit.

Morgenster Italian Collection Caruso 2014 (R82)*

Made to celebrate Morgenster Wine & Olive Estate owner Giulio Bertrand's Italian heritage, and named for his love of opera, the Italian Collection comprises two reds and a food-friendly pink made from sangiovese. Unusually good with tomato-based dishes, the Caruso 2014 bursts with red cherries and cranberries, plus an intriguing hint of rooibos.

Saxenburg The Drunken Fowl 2013 (R70)*

From Stellenbosch red wine specialist (and olive oil producer) Saxenburg comes a less serious take on shiraz, The Drunken Fowl 2013, named for Bertie the resident guinea fowl. Smooth and soft with peppery spice, this fruit-driven wine oozes black plums.

* Prices are ex-cellar and may vary in retail outlets.