Elephant magic in Botswana

Fransje van Riel appreciates the balance between luxurious surroundings and an authentic wildlife experience offered at Chobe Game Lodge, Botswana

"Folks, for those of you seated on the left-hand side of the aircraft", the pilot's voice crackled over the intercom, "there's a herd of buffalo right outside the airport fence. Welcome to Chobe!"

We look - and there they are: one of Africa's Big Five dangerous animals, skirting around the building that every day welcomes visitors from all over the world to experience Botswana's phenomenal wildlife.

A blanket of heat wraps itself around us as we walk across the tarmac towards the arrivals hall. Airport staff ask to see our passports before we even enter the building. "Ebola check," the woman says.

It's a hop and a skip from the main tarred road to the national park. After signing in, our guide, DK, who met us at the airport, gives us the thumbs up and plunges the vehicle into a stunning area of mixed woodland.

"African Massage", she quips as we bump our way along a sandy track and drive past a small group of dainty impala and their young.

Half an hour later, we pull up at Chobe Game Lodge, where a family of warthogs, including three adorable little piglets, are nibbling on the lawn in front of the units.

I make my way to the jetty, where a small group of guests have gathered to board one of the river skimmers for an afternoon safari cruise.

Chobe Game Lodge has direct access to the water, without having to drive into Kasane town, where most operators keep their boats. And, with a large table, comfortable deck chairs, a sunroof and the lure of sundowners and snacks, it promises to be a pretty good way to look for Chobe's elephants.

"There!" one of our party shrieks, pointing to the bank about 500m downstream.

Sure enough, an iconic African scene plays itself out as a small herd of great, grey pachyderms beat a quick path down towards the Chobe River.

Rumbling and trumpeting in obvious delight, first one elephant enters the water and is soon followed by the rest of her extended family. Playing, diving and splashing around, about five elephants frolic . Others stand on the bank gathering trunks-full of water , paying no attention to the consternation of a troop of baboons by the water's edge.

A second, larger herd comes into view a little further downstream. Calves barrel along, keeping up with their mothers and aunts in anticipation of reaching the banks.

Honking hippos surface left and right while across the water, on the Namibian floodplain, menacing crocodiles lie, seemingly lifeless.

It is late November and the daytime temperature is an absolute scorcher before the summer rains. The elephants have no choice but to traverse from wherever they are browsing, deeper inside the national park, and come down to the river to drink.

We too enjoy a drink before slowly heading back to the lodge at dusk.

Later, we are lured by the soft-glowing lights at the Linyanti Bar, where we enjoy a pre-dinner drink.

At dinner, jars with solar lights add to the romantic setting while waiters bear cloche-covered plates without any sense of pomposity.

At reception the next morning, I meet one of the lodge's 15 all-female guiding crew, known as the Chobe Angels.

Malebogo Kgoleng is one of the first women to operate the Freedom 3, the lodge's first electric game-drive vehicle. It has no engine noise so it does not disturb the animals and, when exciting sightings occur, the vehicle can be left running where others have to be switched off.

Despite the luxury and opulence that is associated with Chobe Game Lodge, I depart feeling that there is so much more to it than just glitz and glamour. The place has heart. Set in a spectacular wildlife setting, including phenomenal birding, it has defied all my expectations.

Fransje van Riel was a guest of Chobe Game Lodge

PLANNING YOUR TRIP:

•  How to get there:  Airlink operates daily flights directly from Johannesburg to Kasane, Botswana. See saairlink.co.za

•  Contacts for Chobe Game Lodge: visit desertdelta.com, phone (011) 394-3873, or e-mail reservation@desertdelta.com