This is a smoking good sauvignon, writes Neil Pendock
Sauvignon blanc is the infinity scarf or Ugg boot of the South African cellar: totally out of fashion. A succession of over-acidic vintages did wonders for the sales of Rennies and chenin blanc as a softer alternative to inexpensive fruity whites.
This fresh and creamy treat is labelled "white blend" but being 85% sauvignon, could also be called sauvignon blanc. In addition to the bad press of its main component, the other reason estate owner Christo Wiese prefers to go the blend route is some supermarkets insist that sauvignon is best in the year of its vintage, which makes this five-year-old beauty well past its sell-by date.
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Another is the wine is barrel-fermented and very few understand sauvignon that's been kissed by an oak as opposed to an oke. The wood adds layers of vanilla flavour while age brings a new dimension of complexity.
On the Loire they call their wooded sauvignons vin fumé - smoked wine - which may be a label change Wiese should grimly consider after the devastating bushfires that singed his vineyards earlier this month.
This is a terrific white with sufficient gravitas to handle the Indian tapas transforming the South African dining scene in the restaurants of Analjit Singh (Marigold in Franschhoek) and Liam Tomlin (Thali in Gardens). A versatile interpretation of an all too often one-dimensional grape.
Price per bottle: R160
Where to buy? www.lourensford.co.za
Rating: *****
***** Wedge boots
**** Designer pyjamas
*** Coloured tights
** Floppy hats
* Man buns
• This article was originally published in The Times.
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