Samba & then some: Rio is more than just a carnival city

26 March 2017 - 19:11 By Chandré Prince
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The view from the cable car serving Sugarloaf - the perfect setting for a chilled caipirinha. But then just about everywhere in Rio is.
The view from the cable car serving Sugarloaf - the perfect setting for a chilled caipirinha. But then just about everywhere in Rio is.
Image: iSTOCK

Chandré Prince finds the food, beaches and laid-back sophistication of Rio de Janeiro are like nowhere else on Earth

I recently turned 40 and what better way to celebrate than spend four days exploring and enjoying the most beautiful city in the Milky Way? It had always been a dream and finally my passport carried the stamps: São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

Known as the carnival city of the world - in February it welcomes more than two million festivalgoers a day over five days - Rio is much more than just samba dancers, half-naked women with flamboyant costumes on parade floats and caipirinha cocktails.

It is a bustling city that offers something distinctly unique. For me, it was a well-deserved break from an intense year of chasing deadlines and reporting on President Jacob Zuma's friends, the infamous Guptas and the state of capture.

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After a 10-hour flight from OR Tambo International Airport on LATAM Airlines, we were ready for an unforgettable adventure that included beautiful scenery, long golden beaches, five-star luxury, nature at its best and a never-ending supply of delicious food. And cocktails.

It's the stuff holiday dreams are made off.

Our stay at the Belmond Copacabana Palace started with a welcome gift - a pair of white Havaianas, into which I immediately slipped to relax my tired feet. Hotel communications manager Cassiano Vitorino smiled: "Just what your feet need after your long flight."

The Belmond Copacabana Palace stands graciously over South America's most iconic beaches. I'm in awe as Vitorino guides us through the hotel, which once hosted our beloved Nelson Mandela and has a hall of fame where pictures of other past visitors - the likes of Richard Gere, Liza Minnelli, Mick Jagger, Michael Schumacher and Nat King Cole - adorn the walls.

Built in 1923, the hotel has 241 rooms, with the sixth floor housing seven suites with private swimming pools, tended at all times by a butler. Vitorino tells us Madonna, Coldplay, Johnny Depp, Kate Moss and Guns 'N Roses have all stayed here.

We were whisked off to lunch at one of the hotel's three restaurants, which overlooked a sparkling pool.

After a welcome glass of Bellini champagne and lunch consisting of ox tongue with a twist and the most divine homemade pasta, we were ready to explore Rio.

First up was a trip to Sugarloaf - a peak that rises 396m and presents a bird's-eye view of Rio. More than a million tourists visit Sugarloaf every year and make use of the two cable cars.

It offers jaw-dropping views of the ocean and we were treated to the most spectacular scenery and sunset. The chilled caipirinha was a welcome relief for those who were sensitive to heights.

After this adventure, we were ready for a culinary experience. Anna Nagy, of Walpax Brazil Travel Partners, treated us to a Brazilian barbecue at Churrascaria Palace, close to the Copacabana Hotel.

Nagy had warned us not to be shy to say "no", but it was only as waiters made frequent rounds with the most succulent prime-cut roast meats that we understood her warning.

The restaurant is highly popular and is unlike anything we have in South Africa. From strawberry-infused sushi to spare ribs, prawns and oysters, it was a food-lover's heaven. I'm salivating just at the thought of the menu.

Over the next few days, I discovered that Rio's cuisine is very unpretentious. Cariocas, as the locals are called, indulge in their food in crowded bars and on busy street corners, with specialities including feijoada (bean-and-meat stew).

Nagy told us that feijoada served with rice was a Saturday special in most homes and when families got together. The dish traces its origins to the food given to slaves on sugar and coffee plantations, but it is fit for a king.

Another favourite I discovered was pão de queijo (cheese bread/ rolls). These were served as part of the hotel's breakfast buffet and found their way onto my plate most mornings.

I loved the fresh produce markets. There you can find anything from fresh fruit and vegetables to cheese, cakes, fresh seafood and wait for it ... walkie-talkies (chicken feet).

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Our trip also included an open-top Jeep tour of the mystical Tijuca rainforest and a trip up Corcovado, the mountain on which the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue stands.

The 38m statue was designed by French sculptor Paul Landowski and built by the Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa, in collaboration with the French engineer Albert Caquot. It is one of Rio's most renowned landmarks and attracts two million visitors a year.

Standing so close to this landmark was surreal and a must for anyone touring Rio.

Rio is also synonymous with beautiful beaches.

The hotel was located along the sexy Copacabana beach and not far from Ipanema. Both beaches were always bustling with locals (wearing as little as possible), either playing beach volleyball or soccer, sipping cocktails or just tanning.

I was pleasantly surprised by how safe we felt when taking a walk along Copacabana at 11pm and indulging in a choppa (beer).

A trip to Rio would not be complete without a visit to a nightclub and so, on our last night, we put on our dancing shoes and danced the night away. Samba lovers of all ages flocked to the club, and their moves were out of this world.

One of the regulars was a man in his 70s who reminded me of Fred Astaire - he had us watching in awe as he partnered women half his age.

One thing I know for sure. Next time the travel gods give me a Rio pass, I want to go for a few samba lessons with Rio's Fred Astaire. 

sub_head_start FUN FACTS sub_head_end

• If there is one thing South Africans would love about Rio, it's that you can drink alcohol on the beaches. There are kiosks on the stretches that sell chilled alcohol and amazing cocktails.

• You can't just light up your ciggie. Rio has smoking police and if you are caught dropping a cigarette butt, be prepared to face a hefty fine.

• Rio has gay-friendly zones.

• Take enough cash to buy a pair of Havaianas. These flip-flops are a must-have in Rio. I bought eight pairs.

• Oh, and for those of us who were not first in line when it came to manageable hair, Rio has several shops that sell great hair-treatment products.

- Prince was a guest of LATAM and Thompsons Holidays.

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