TV series nudges fortified wines back into favour

24 May 2015 - 02:00 By Joanne Gibson

In my treasured possession are three mismatched but exquisite little sherry glasses - the last survivors of two sets of crystal that used to grace my grandparents' dinner table. I can't bring myself to get rid of them even though personally - and professionally - I prefer to focus on the contents of my glass rather than pretty patterns on the outside.Following their most recent stay of execution (touch and go, following a house move that called for practicality rather than sentimentality), I have resolved to use the glasses more often this winter. This means more fortified wines. What could be better than warming up from the inside over a glass or three (they're very tiny glasses) of wine that has been "fortified" with brandy or grape spirit to boost its alcohol content?mini_story_image_vleft1Originally fortification was done to help preserve wines including Spain's Vino de Jerez (sherry) and Portugal's Vinho do Porto (port). Producers discovered that the earlier they added the spirit, the sweeter the wine would be. What's more, they discovered that fortification didn't only preserve the wine but also made it taste yummy.After a steady decline in recent decades, sales of fortified wines are rising again - partly thanks to new-generation bartenders using them in cocktails, partly thanks to the so-called Downton Abbey effect. Apparently we all want to emulate the Crawleys, sipping small glasses of chilled sherry with their soup, or ending their meal with a toast of port.When it comes to the Cape's excellent port-style wines, Calitzdorp-based cellar De Krans shouldn't require much introduction, having recently achieved its 10th consecutive five-star rating in the annual Platter's guide. Made from traditional Portuguese varieties Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barocca, its densely sweet but balanced Cape Vintage Reserve Port 2012 has whiffs of dried flowers leading to black fruit, dark chocolate and spice flavours (R195 ex-cellar).FESTIVAL FOR FOODIESThe Calitzdorp Port & Wine Festival is being rejuvenated as a full "Winter in Calitzdorp" experience from June 13 to July 19 2015. Axehill, Boplaas, Calitzdorp Cellar, De Krans, Peter Bayly, Du'SwaRoo, TTT and Withoek will offer tastings. Unusual food and wine pairings will also be on offer...

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