Glynis Horning is pleasantly surprised by the unpretentious excellence of Chef Adam Robinson’s new eatery, The Glenwood Restaurant in Durban The Glenwood Restaurant is as unpretentious as its name. Like its sister establishment, The Glenwood Bakery, and their owner, Adam Robinson, it has no place for the empty flourish - slates for plates, brush strokes for sauces and artfully over-dressed puds.A modest veteran of restaurants in London and France, Robinson learnt from the likes of Alastair Little at L'Escargot, running his own restaurants before falling for the KZN Midlands on a visit, and opening Corner Post in Howick, soon a cult culinary stop on the Meander.story_article_left1His food is a celebration of fresh, locally sourced produce, prepared in traditional ways that respect its innate flavours and textures, and presented with minimal fuss. As Robinson puts it: "The finest cooking I have experienced has been from a master craftsman whose originality comes from a slight tweak of a tradition or a re-discovery of a lost dish. Only in incremental improvement will you find excellence."It's a brave statement in a fickle world, but he lives by it - at the bakery, which he opened last year, and now at the restaurant, in a classic Glenwood veranda house tastefully dressed by his wife. Carin Robinson's passion for "abstraction and reduction" is evident in the plain wooden floors, white walls, furniture and crockery, and the monochrome lithographs that are its only ornament.The food, from Robinson and co-chef John Stanyer, requires nothing more, from the complimentary olives and breadsticks, crisp and full of flavour, to each offering on the menu. Starters are simplicity itself - three perfectly-steamed oysters with julienne cucumber and butter sauce (R70), buckwheat blini with smoked salmon and crème fraîche (R60), and our regular - vegetable antipasti for two, shiitake mushrooms, softly-boiled egg dabbed with aioli, marinated peppers and artichokes, and lacy tempura courgettes, served with Robinson's unbeatable bread (R80).Mains range from poached free-range chicken breast in aioli broth to baked Cape salmon with baby potato salad, but Robinson is a flour man, and the focus is on house-made pastas. Fresh tagliatelle sings in its simple cloak of cherry tomatoes, basil and cream (R55), and an open herb ravioli lifts ratatouille, prawns and beurre blanc (R80) to a new high.But the highlight is the rotolo, butternut and ricotta in a hug of lasagne, studded with pine nuts and crispy sage (R60). Followed by good gorgonzola with preserved figs and toasted rye sourdough (R40), or stewed quince, home-made ice cream and a Madeleine warm from the oven (R40), it makes for a meal that is simple - and simply the best.sub_head_start THE LOWDOWN sub_head_endPrice: R200 should cover three courses, coffee and corkage (R20).Vibe: Laidback, despite shiny silverware and all the right glasses.If it had a soundtrack: Timeless greats like Miles Davis, Nina Simone.People who will like it: Anyone into good food that speaks for itself.People who will not like it: Fans of multi-storey starters and puds in jars.What to wear: Just be yourself, but natural fabrics will not go unnoticed.Hot tips: Take a table in the herb and veggie garden.SCORECARD (OUT OF 5)Food: 4Ambience: 3Service: 4Value for Money: 4Total: 15/20Visit: 113 Brand Road, Durban, 031-201-0745, www.glenwoodrestaurant.co.za..