The beginner's guide to hiking the Drakensberg

05 July 2015 - 02:00 By Marianne Schwankhart

The Drakensberg stretches some 1 600km - with adventures for all tastes, writes Marianne Schwankhart Where the earth rises sharply to cliffs that resemble the spine of a dragon is where the Drakensberg comes into its full glory, overshadowing its foothills in the Free State and Natal.The escarpment continues all the way to Hoedspruit, with dramatic geological changes. What most people know as the Drakensberg is split into the Northern, Central and Southern Berg in length, starting at the Sentinel in the north and running to Underberg in the south.story_article_left1In width, it is divided into the lower hills known as the Little Berg, beyond which are the individual peaks that give the range its distinctive characters, such as the Bell, Cathedral Peak, Cathkin Peak. Beyond them lies the escarpment - the most difficult to get to and the most spectacular, at over 3 000m.The quickest access to the Northern Berg from Joburg is via the Oliviershoek Pass, a road that's been under construction for as long as I can remember. The landmark of the Northern Berg is the walls of Sentinel Peak and the Amphitheatre, where the Tugela River tumbles 947m down the cliff face. Resorts and accommodation are ample, yet far enough apart to give a sense of remoteness. Most established trails start from Royal Natal National Park and Mont-aux-Sources, which fall under Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife territory.Mnweni is deeper in the mountains, closer to the Central Berg and remote. It has a campsite and dorms which offer access to the well-known Rockeries Pass and Mponjwana Peak.Another 30km further (as the crow flies) are Cathedral Peak and the Bell, with accommodation options of hotel, chalets and a campsite.mini_story_image_hright1The real buzz of the Central Berg, with luxury estates, hotels, campsites and a golf course is in Champagne Valley. On a busy weekend, tour buses and SUVs could disturb a peaceful mountain experience. The best trails launch from Monks Cowl campsite at the end of the road, with well-maintained paths.From there, the valleys are more remote and quicker to get to from Durban. Injisuthi is a spot for solitude, tucked away in the heart of the Little Berg with chalets and a campsite.The highest and most dramatic edge of the escarpment is at Giant's Castle, a formidable ascent that only the brave attempt. It marks the end of the sheer cliffs - the mountains continue into the Southern Berg of the Lotheni district, with fewer features, yet are still impressive. The mountain range continues past Underberg and the Sani Pass until it eventually ends at Elliot in the Eastern Cape.Walking in the foothills often takes one past villages and establishments where the hills are not too steep and one generally doesn't need a permit. The various peaks of the Berg proper, however, are steep and often as high as the escarpment. If you plan to climb to the top of the escarpment you need to be fit and experienced. These mountains can catch you off guard and are the ultimate test of human ability.sub_head_start IF YOU GO... sub_head_endGOOD TO KNOW:For most of the big peaks and getting to the escarpment, you need to pay a levy to Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, which is charged at the entrance to each location. The Sentinel falls under Free State province and has similar charges.There are various hiking options. Maps are available in outdoor stores or one can order from slingsbymaps.com.mini_story_image_hleft2WHERE TO STAY:• Northern Berg: hlalanathi.co.za, phone 036-438-6308.• Central Berg: dragonpeaks.com, phone 036-468-1031.• Southern Berg: khotso.co.za, phone 033-701-1502.CONTACT:See cdic.co.za for more information on the entire Drakensberg. For the Central Berg, call 036 488 1207.FURTHER READING:There are superb stories of the Drakensberg in Duncan Souchon's book Serpent Spires (Jonathan Ball, R497)...

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