Readers’ World: A house-sitting holiday in France

17 July 2016 - 02:00 By Beverley Nel

Beverley Nel finds caring for a stranger’s stuff is a great way to experience life as a local in a charming village in the Loire Valley The display in the window should have been a giveaway but in my pursuit of living like a local, I went to the local butcher to buy mince. It was only later - when the unfamiliar, sweet smell of the meat cooking permeated the kitchen in my adopted house - that I discovered I had indeed purchased meat from "un Boucher Chevalin", a horse butchery.story_article_left1Needless to say, mealtimes for my furry charge were anticipated with a wagging tail for the next few days.I had taken the plunge, applied online with a housesitting site and, after a volley of communication, found myself housesitting in central France.In return for free accommodation, I had agreed to take care of my host's home, a beautiful dog, chickens and three sheep for eight weeks. The location was breathtaking, on a smallholding surrounded by farmlands and woods, situated between the ancient villages of Briare, Châtillon-sur-Loire and Ousson-sur-Loire.The Loire Valley is home to magnificent chateaux, mansions, churches and abbeys. The area is rich in history, spiritual and cultural life. With all of this within my reach, armed with a map, my hiking boots and daypack, every day was an adventure.Walking through the village of Braire became a favourite pastime. The quiet banks of the tree-lined canal can soothe any soul. A lock-keeper's house on the canal was the place to sit and watch the sun set over the pont and savour the best chocolates ever.One of the greatest pleasures of living like a local in rural France is wandering through a traditional market. The weekly market, "le marché", in Briare, is held in the square under the shadow of the beautiful Church of Saint-Etienne. Here, I savoured cheese and patisseries.A short distance from the smallholding over the suspension bridge lay the historic village of Châtillon-sur-Loire, a place that had all the assets for seducing me: hidden alleys and old stone stairs.I had my hair done in a house dating back to the Middle Ages in the village centre - no visit to the hairdresser will ever be able to compete with that.The trompe l'oeil wall paintings done by resident artists on walls throughout the village depict its history. It was while walking through this village one afternoon at the start of spring that I witnessed a migration of cranes flying overhead in formation, making the most unbelievable ruckus. It was a magnificent sight.block_quotes_start I was invited for afternoon tea at a beautiful chateau dating back to the 1700s, complete with moat, turrets and a private forest block_quotes_endI could not fail to be enticed by the local boulangerie. The bakery's window displayed the most divine pastries daily, and always led to a visit inside to try out something new or to purchase a newly firm favourite, eclairs au chocolat.The village of Ousson-sur-Loire, where I spent may happy hours walking the dog, is a tranquil place with lots of nooks and crannies to investigate. It lies on the banks of the mighty Loire River, a place where I indulged in my new hobby of fossil-hunting.It was such a joy to experience the changing of the season in the countryside. In winter, the river banks and open fields were carpeted with little white flowers called snow drops. These were replaced by daffodils and violets in the spring, as well as rabbits darting around the open fields, much to the delight of my furry friend. While walking in the woods one day, I soon discovered that it was hunting season when I heard a volley of shots, it was the quickest I've ever "ducked" out of there.story_article_right2My inability to speak French led to some amusing incidents, one being when I bought crème anglaise, only to discover that it was custard and not cream when I poured it over my spinach. Google Translate became my friend soon after that.On Sunday evenings, I filled my host's spot in the local card-playing group. Here I met some of the most interesting locals, among them a countess, an artist, a local historian and a horse breeder. Despite my not being able to understand much of the conversation, I was still able to win a game here and there.The highlight of my trip was being invited for afternoon tea at a beautiful chateau dating back to the 1700s, complete with moat, turrets and a private forest. The moat had a rowing boat and resident black swans.The peacocks strutting around the grounds completed the picture. I was surprised to find a stuffed brown bear on the third-floor landing - what a place to live.Housesitting has become my new way to travel on a budget, perfect if you want to live like a local. The question now is, where to next? • Share your travel experiences with us in 'Readers' World'. Send your photos - at least 500KB - and a story of no more than 800 words. ALL winners receive R1,000. Only winning entrants will be contacted. Email travelmag@sundaytimes.co.za ..

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