Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal: The road is calling

Gabi Mbele discovers pastoral wonders on a four-day drive through the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal

Trading the concrete jungle for a lush green environment is always a pleasure, especially when the trip starts with a drive  from Durban down to the Wild Coast.

With no clue of what to expect, excitement filled our Europcar-sponsored bus as we drove south,  all of us alert to see what we could explore along the way.

First stop was a moment to touch the ocean in Scottburgh as the TOMSA/Sunday Times Finders Keepers team took a moment to breathe in the good sea air.

Then we headed to Oribi Gorge where amazing adventures await the brave. There’s the “Wild Gorge Swing” on which you swing  into the gorge, abseiling, ziplining and whitewater rafting on the Mzimkulu River. For R5 you can walk across  a high suspension bridge too.

An hour’s drive took us to a VIP welcome at the  Wild Coast Sun Resort & Casino. There are plenty activities here too, such  as a boat ride on the Mtamvuna River, Segway and quad bike trails, the fantastic Wild Waves Water Park, a spectacular golf course and walking and horse riding on the beach.

Since we arrived at sunset, the boat cruise was the best way to end the day, followed by a braai on the opposite river bank, which meant we were, really, still in KwaZulu-Natal.

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After a quick visit to  Beaver Creek Coffee Farm — a great stop  for those interested in how coffee beans are prepared — we hit the road to Port St Johns, passing through Bizana, Lusikisiki and Flagstaff, our mood buoyed by the sight of shop names such as “Good Luck Charm” and “New Feelings”. We also stopped to watch the Pondo Chiefs Football Club doing afternoon football  practice on their dusty makeshift pitch.

Everywhere we went, people had a tale to tell, such as Lin whom we met at a little bar on the Mtamvuna River who gave us tips on what to see when we get to her “favourite town of Port St Johns”.

By the third day, we were enjoying its  beautiful beach — where cows roam free — and its amazing views. Thanks to legendary  bush-dwelling resident ex-politician Ben Dekker, we also took an awesome 3km hike down the coast to the blowhole at The Gap. Then to Mthatha and down the rocky, winding road to Coffee Bay (see the story on the next page) where we chilled for two days — and recommend that you do too.

Coffee Bay is small, but has a good vibe which attracts tourists from all over the world, and for good reason — it is surrounded by immense beauty,  and offers many diversions and attractions.

We would have liked to linger but it is a long road from Coffee Bay to Queenstown — our next night stop — and we had to move on. If you like road trips, it is a pleasant drive,  just go slowly and take it all in — the rolling hills, the kids waving from the roadside, and soon, the barrier of mountains that rise into the sky as you approach Queenstown. In short, a beautiful journey.

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sub_head_start A WALK ON THE WILD SIDEsub_head_end

Jan Bornman and Gabi Mbele ta ke Jan Bornman and Gabi Mbele take a short break on the Wild Coast

The short hike to the “jacuzzi” along the rugged coast from Coffee Bay is not for the faint of heart but rather for those who like a nice view along with a challenging walk.

It’s an impressive ramble — be prepared for steep climbs and even steeper scrambles down the cliffs  to get there.

The walk to the cave is just one of the many attractions of Coffee Bay, named for a cargo of the precious beans that washed up on the beach from a wrecked ship in 1863. Now it’s one of the most popular resorts on the Wild Coast.

The trek follows an interesting route through some of the local villages where you can stay with a family for the night. Other activities include visits to villages, horse riding on the beach, guided hikes and surfing lessons.

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We were led by a local man named  Nyameko Ngexe, who has worked as a guide for the past three years. On the return journey, he took us to the best part of the walk — jumping from  a 7m cliff —  it felt more like 20m — into the lagoon.

Afterwards, we met some local guys who had prepared probably the best braaied toastie we’ll ever taste. We  added  fresh crayfish that we bought   from local divers and cooked them over the fire and enjoyed a lunch fit for a king. Then the “worst” part of the day — the trek to the truck taking us back to our lodgings.

In the late afternoon we took another 5km hike to the top of a another hill for sundowners before heading down for dinner.

That night we joined the overseas guests and the locals at the Babalaza Bar to relax and play pool and sit around the fire to watch the drumming and the dancing.

Five days of surf lessons  cost R2,500. Guided tours to the cave and Hole in the Wall (R90), overnight stay with a Xhosa family (R90), horseriding (R250).

sub_head_start THE ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS sub_head_end

NELSON MANDELA MUSEUM

Learning about world icon and former president of South Africa Nelson Mandela comes easy if you visit the Nelson Mandela Museum in Qunu, near Mthatha. The museum is a short walk from his home and place of rest by the Mbashe River.

 It celebrates his international gifts and tells his stories. The Youth and Heritage Centre offers an interesting tale of how it was made from a combination of remains of Mandela’s primary school, an old church and granite rocks. Guests can walk though the pastures where Madiba was a shepherd as a young man. Entrance if free and the venue offers a look at Qunu like no other.

DETAILS: For more information contact the museum on 047-532-5110. — Gabi Mbele

ORIBI GORGE KING SWING

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OK, so not technically in the Eastern Cape but still, we called in at the Wild 5 Adventures  to watch those who dare do what is dubbed  “blood pumping fall”. It was a walk in the park for jumper Anusha Ramraj who took her second plunge in celebration of her 37th birthday. “It’s a feeling like none other, my first time was on my 36th birthday,“ she said. “I just had to do it again.”

DETAILS: Wild 5 Adventure: Phone 082-566-7424 or see www.wild5adventures.co.za. The gorge swing costs R650. — Gabi Mbele

BEAVER CREEK COFFEE FARM AND HIKING TRAIL

Although I’m not the biggest coffee aficionado I know, I admit to being addicted to caffeine enough to want to know how it’s made. So off to the Beaver Creek Coffee Estate and Roastery where we went for an eye-opening “crop to cup” tour.

If, like me, you didn’t know that coffee beans are cultivated from a sweet-tasting berry, then a visit to Beaver Creek is overdue. After following the entire process from the plantation to the roastery you  can sit back and enjoy a freshly brewed cup at the farm’s Estate Cafe.

A stone’s throw from Beaver Creek is the Clearwater Hiking trail and viewing deck, which overlooks the gorge of the Umtamvuna River. On arriving at the deck we interrupted a group of baboons who scattered and left us to take in the panoramic views.

DETAILS: Beaver Creek: Phone 039-311-2347, email info@beavercreek or see www.beavercreek.co.za. — Jan Bornman

WILD COAST HORSE TRAIL

The  Wild   Coast  is spectacular  horse riding country — rolling green hills and long beaches where your mounts get to stretch their legs. Wild Coast Horseback Adventures offers rides ranging  from a gentle morning trot on the beach to a seven-day trail up the coast, overnighting in hotels. The company works closely with  Peas On Earth, an eco-friendly permaculture and voluntourism operation which has strong links to the local community.

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Peas on Earth teaches natural horsemanship and natural  farming methods, and has an outreach program with the nearby school which has run successfully for the past seven years.

DETAILS: Wild Coast Horseback Adventures, Kei Mouth. See wildcoasthorsebackadventures.com or phone 082-567-0972. Phone Peas on Earth on 043-831-1666 or see www.peasonearth.co.za.

LILLY LODGE AND BEN DEKKER

The man has lived in the forest in Port St Johns for the last 30 years. Intrigued, we went looking for him. After a couple of false starts we were led to Lilly Lodge on the picturesque Second Beach. One of the friendly lodge staff took us to Dekker’s enclave by means of a  narrow path on the cliff, the  sea crashing onto the pebbled beach below.

After a long conversation with Dekker —  who because his popularity, I surmise, has a few prepared answers and jokes but reveals little about his life — he warmed up a little and took us on a hike  through his domain. All along the way, he picks up any litter he sees and I realise that his love for this corner of the world is absolute. We spend hours sitting with him  atop a steep cliff listening to the ocean and watching the birds. “Who needs money, when you have this?” he asks. Who indeed?

DETAILS: Lilly Lodge is in the dune forest in Port St Johns. Phone 047-564-1229. — Jan Bornman

SUNSET CRUISE ON THE MTAMVUNA RIVER

A sunset cruise on the Mtamvuna River is a great way to explore the river and get to know a tiny piece of the Wild Coast. Cruises depart   from the Border Post bar at the Wild Coast Sun and head down to various viewpoints on the river while you listen to stories about the birds and fish living here. — Quincy Tstatsi

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DETAILS: The Border Post, Wild Coast Sun. Rates are R1,300 for an hour, the boat takes about 11 people.

HIKING THE WILD COAST

With its empty beaches and lofty cliffs looming over a surfswept shores, the Wild Coast feels as if it is untouched by time. People who know it say it is one of South Africa’s best-kept tourism secrets. Much of that has to do with the lack of road access which means the blight of mass tourism has passed it by.

The best way to see the coast, then, is on foot from the trail that runs from Port Edward in the north to the Kei Mouth. It can be walked in shorter sections such as that  from Port Edward to Port St Johns, which takes  you to Waterfall Bluff where the river plunges 60m straight into the Indian Ocean.

I once did the section from Port St Johns to Coffee Bay — spending a glorious week  tramping across this remote and beautiful part of the country is one  of the standout experiences of my travelling life.

DETAILS: Contact Eastern Cape Tourism, Phone 043-705-4400, e-mail info@ecpta.co.za or see www.visiteasterncape.co.za. — Paul Ash

sub_head_start WHERE WE STAYED sub_head_end

WILD COAST SUN CASINO & RESORT

5 stars

The Eastern Cape is a largely unspoilt corner of the country. For vast distances, on hills and the sunny sides of valleys colourful painted rondavels occupy spots with views you couldn’t dream of affording in the city.

As you approach the coast,  the hills and valleys give way to the forest and it is within this lush setting of Port Edward that Sun International’s Wild Coast Sun is nestled. We checked in just before sunset but the resort had more to reveal about its beauty in the light of day.

Staff are courteous and professional and tranquility pervades your stay. The expansive resort is the ideal romantic or family getaway. We toured the resort by golf cart but the scenic grounds can’t be better seen than from  horseback.

There’s tons to do here. Highlights are the water sports park, The Border Post bar and the boat  cruise down the Mtamvuna River at sunset. — Quincy Tsatsi

DETAILS: Main Bizana Road, Port Edward, Phone 011-780-7800, e-mail crobook@suninternational.com or see www.suninternational.com.

RATES: Sea-facing Luxury King Rooms begin at R1,665 per person (T&Cs apply)

ALOE GROVE GUEST FARM

4 stars

Searching for a serene, placid and a little adventure? Then Aloe Grove Guest Farm is the ideal place where taking a book, having a girls’ weekend away or even a wedding or conference is a treat at a place that can take up to 70 guests.

The country-chic lodge started out 17 years ago as a farmhouse owned by Michelle Thompson and now offers a range of accommodation from thatched chalets and self-catering units to an old converted grain silo. Home-cooked meals are the order of the day. Activities include beautiful walks on the farm, mountain biking on 15km of marked trails and rock art in nearby caves and overhangs. — Gabi Mbele

DETAILS: Aloe Grove Guest Farm, Queenstown, Phone 045-839-5910, e-mail info@aloegrove.co.za or see www.aloegrove.co.za

RATES: From R450 per person per night self-catering to R1,050 for the cottage.

COFFEE SHACK BACKPACKERS

The Coffee Shack Backpackers in Coffee Bay offers the authentic backpackers’ experience. Yes, there are dorm rooms and a camping site, but for those who crave a bigger bed, or who value their privacy, there are other accommodation options, ranging  from single-room rondavels to bigger, en-suite rooms.

Coffee Shack also offers great home-cooked  dinners, awesome Full English breakfasts, and a mean cup of coffee.

If you've ever stayed at a backpackers, you'll know what to expect: friendly and helpful staff who will accommodate almost any request, even friendlier and sociable fellow travellers keen to share a beer and a story from their trips, and endless games.

Coffee Shack Backpackers, however, also offers a few extras, ranging from sundowners  overlooking the ocean to hiking, surf lessons, beach days, and horse riding. — Gabi Mbele

DETAILS: Coffee Shack, Coffee Bay: Phone 047-575-2048, e-mail happydays@coffeeshack.co.za or see www.coffeeshack.co.za

RATES: From R150 per night in a dorm to R760 for the King’s House.

KUZUKO LODGE

5 stars

Relaxation is instantaneous as your drape a blanket over your legs and listen to the knowledgable game rangers’ stories of leopard sightings in this part of the Addo Elephant Park.

The stress of driving is pulled off like a cloak as you are whisked off to terraced rondavels perched atop a hill surrounded by bush inhabited by elephants and lions. The cosy rondavels offer fantastic privacy where one can sip  gin and tonics while watching the sunset from your wooden stoep.

Game drives are tailored to fit your schedule, so you will have enough time to lounge at the infinity pool after an early morning fix of elephant spotting. — Aron Hyman

DETAILS: Olivenfontein Farm, Kommadagga: Phone 042-203-1700, e-mail kuzuko@legacyhotels.co.za or see www.kuzuko.com.

RATES: R5,700 per room per night, all inclusive

SUMMERSTRAND HOTEL, PORT ELIZABETH

3 stars

Cosy and pleasantly familiar, the Summerstrand Hotel is tucked-away off the busy Summerstrand main road. The façade is unassuming while the interior is modern and fresh with sleek décor. The friendly staff greeted us with smiles and a welcome platter and bottle of wine.  A short drive from the ocean, this is the perfect low-key getaway from the conventional accommodation of Port Elizabeth. — Jerome Cornelius

DETAILS: Marine Drive, Summerstrand, Phone 041-583-3131, e-mail reservations@hotsummer.co.za or see http://summerstrandhotel.com.

RATES: R853.47 per night for a single including breakfast. For a double its R935.60 including breakfast for two.

This article was prepared in partnership with the Tourism Business Council of South Africa for the Sunday Times’s Finders Keepers competition.