Spotlight on SA: Elands Bay, Western Cape

Nick Yell explores this pristine nature destination on the West Coast

With my hands clasped behind my back, I stared at the moist sand at my feet with the intensity of a Dickensian schoolmaster about to admonish an urchin for a misdemeanour.

I was looking for the small worms and crustaceans often exposed in the mud flats of estuaries at low tide. Although I saw many tiny holes in the sand, the tubular-shaped inhabitants were scarce; clearly wary of the waves of predatory birds scuttling about in front of me.

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The Verlorenvlei, one of the few freshwater lakes in the country, covers an area of around 1,500ha and stretches from some 30km inland to the estuary at Elands Bay. Declared a Ramsar site in June 1991, the vlei also garnered the status of an important Bird and Biodiversity Area in 1998.

The day before, I'd stopped on its shores and watched flocks of great white pelicans gliding above the shimmering surface of this wetland.

Baboon Point is another of Elands Bay's natural treasures. This Provincial Heritage Site can be clearly seen from Lambert's Bay nearly 30km away and has the distinctive profile of a baboon when seen from the north. The cape itself, and the areas around it, bear evidence of human settlement stretching back some 300,000 years.

Besides the ancient shell middens on the coast, the slopes below Baboon Point showcase other historical treasures, too. A large cave has numerous examples of San Rock Art and these ancient artworks are juxtaposed with the relatively modern ruins of a World War 2 radar station and its barracks nearby.

Back on the beach, I was about to start my walk north when one of the ultra-long Sishen-Saldanha iron-ore trains exited the tunnel under the nearby mountain. The 220 coach, eight-locomotive behemoth thundered past.

With its gradual shoaling - you have to walk out about 50m to have a decent swim - Elands Bay provides one of the best hard sand walking beaches on the West Coast, one of the reasons why the four-day Crayfish Trail leaves from here.

A Cape redfish (Jacopever) beached itself in front of me and soon lay flapping disconsolately at my feet. I eventually got a grip on its slippery tail and walked it out to deeper waters before tossing it back into the sea.

sub_head_start PLAN YOUR TRIP sub_head_end

WHERE TO STAY: The Elands Bay Hotel is a revitalised, old-style country hostelry with four sea-facing double rooms, three family rooms and nine double rooms; all en-suite. There is a bar with pool tables, a "Ladies Bar" and an à la carte restaurant. Self-catering, backpacker and camping facilities are also available.

WHAT: Elands Bay is primarily a pristine nature destination. Activities include surfing, walking, swimming, bird-watching on the nearby Verlorenvlei, fishing, visiting local San Rock Art and archaeological heritage sites (Baboon Point).

COST: R500-R690 B&B for two sharing out of season; R550-R890 in season. Self-catering from R600 out of season (up to three people) and R800 in season. Grassed campsites are R200 per night.

CONTACT: Call 022-972-1640 or 083-288-5881 or visit elandsbayhotel.co.za.