Readers' World: Berlin's backyard

Canals, forests and gherkins - the Spreewald is multi-charmed, writes Sunday Times reader Heidi Davies

Just to get our breath back after a visit to the big, soul-stirring city of Berlin, we decided to stop over in the Spreewald, a scenically stunning area about 100km from the capital, with a network of small canals, rivers and forests.

A leisurely ride on a punt takes you along canals through the most magical scenery imaginable and is one of the best ways to familiarise yourself with the area.

Locals use the punts as their daily transport, since some of the houses are not accessible by road.

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It is almost eerily quiet as the punt glides through dark, mystical woods, where the only sound is the odd cuckoo or woodpecker industriously pecking at a gnarled, old tree.

Suddenly you will hear a rustling in the grass or a splash in the water and be convinced you just saw a little red cap disappearing under a big leaf.

These are the Lutki, tiny mischievous folk who live under roots and in hollows at the water's edge. Should you be lucky (and brave) enough to be in the Spreewald at night, you might also meet a wandering spirit, will-o-the-wisp or, in German, the "Irrlicht".

These are little men with lanterns who can show you the way if you are lost, but if you are unkind to them, they might lead you astray, never to be found again.

However, there is a scientific explanation for these little lights that can genuinely be seen at night. All that organic matter decaying in the swamps and bogs creates methane gas, which ignites spontaneously, causing little flames - magic at its best.

As a firm gherkin addict, I was looking forward to biting into this crunchy, pickled little piece of deliciousness in one of its places of origin, namely the Spreewald. The "Spreewälder Gurken" is trademarked and protected under national law.

You will find cucumbers in every shape and guise, served in many different forms, not just salad. One such traditional dish is "Schmorgurken", braised cucumbers served with jacket potatoes, cream cheese and linseed oil, somewhat weird to the uninitiated but very delicious.

In Lehde we visited the museum, where we learnt much about the history of the area and saw the beautiful national dresses with their elaborate head dress. In the 6th century, the Sorbs, a Slavic tribe, settled here, influencing the culture and customs of the area. Afterwards we enjoyed some hot coffee under shady trees accompanied by a "Berliner", a doughnut. Still warm, it was oozing jam and drenched in sugar - melt-in-the-mouth magical.

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The town of Burg is mainly known for its curative mineral waters. It also has its fair share of museums and monuments.

Here we went to one of the most unusual places we'd ever visited, a little restaurant and museum of old train memorabilia. Every nook and cranny was full of collectables of days gone by. The best part was a little model railway running on the outer perimeters of the restaurant, which brings your drinks by model train.

When you are ready to order, you hold up a little sign, the train comes chugging along and stops at your table. You place your order into the little carriage, it chugs off to the kitchen and returns with your drinks.

We ate pike, which is plentiful in the waters of the Spreewald, but to this day I can't say what it tasted like as we were spellbound by the happenings in this restaurant. Every now and again, the train speeds past your table, little miniature people wait at the stations and, just for fun and because you are in "cucumberland", a gherkin on wheels makes its appearance.

In Straupitz we noticed thousands of Easter decorations in a garden. Stopping to take photos, we were invited in to have a closer look, and ended up having tea with the owners.

Here in the Spreewald you will find magic around every corner, but as Roald Dahl said, "Those who don't believe in magic, will never find it."

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