You don’t need the Big Five for a memorable nature trip

No frills, but all the thrills of nature - that's what happens when you visit two of South Africa's national parks at once, writes Des Featherstone

We've wanted to go to Malgas to experience the pont for a while now. The right weekend came along and we decided to make a road trip of it and explore two national parks at the same time.

Bontebok National Park is an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive from Cape Town. It's the smallest of the national parks, established to ensure the preservation of the bontebok. It's simple - no curio shop or tourist frills - but the chalets, set among yellowwood trees and tall aloes on the banks of the Breede River, are good.

It's beautifully quiet and on a drive around the park before supper we were the only car in sight. Of course, we saw bontebok, a few grey rhebok, blue cranes and a solitary mongoose.    

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In the morning, we took a walk along the Aloe Hill trail. It's an easy 3.3km walk up the hill and along the river where the lush green vegetation contrasts sharply with the fynbos further out. The morning dew was clinging to spider webs and dandelions, making the world crisp and fresh.

On our way out, we took a meandering drive to admire the scenery and get a last glimpse of the bontebok before taking a long detour along gravel roads through farmlands to get to Malgas.

It was a beautiful day and the water was flat and clear when we made our crossing of the Breede River. For just R48 you drive your car onto the pont and cross the river in the same way that it has been crossed since 1860. This is the last hand-drawn pont in South Africa.

The crew use harnesses and chains attached to a pulley. They then walk along the deck of the pontoon, pulling it along to the other side. My hubby harnessed himself up and gave it a try, finding it hard work in the midday sun.

From Malgas, we drove through Bredasdorp and on to Agulhas and the southernmost tip of Africa. The area, rugged, remote and breathtakingly beautiful, was proclaimed a national park in 1999. The coastline is dotted with inviting little bays and below the chalets is a perfectly round and blue lagoon.

The staff and the chalets are both exceptional. The charming Esterien Wessels runs reception - she is an absolute credit to SANParks - and the chalets are wonderful, having been refurbished in 2014.

In the morning we hiked the 5km Rasperpunt trail which starts at the wreck of the Meisho Maru and follows the coastline, sometimes in the bush and sometimes on the beach.    

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The wrecks on this coast are proof that it is not always tranquil here. The wreck of the Meisho Maru, a Japanese fishing vessel that ran aground in 1982, can still be seen near the southern tip. The southernmost point itself is marked by a small pyramid where tourists can take photographs to prove they were there.

Our next stop was the lighthouse. A 70-step climb up the (very) steep ladders will reward you with a fine view of the cape. Go to the very top and stand next to the light itself; watch out for the wind!

PLAN YOUR TRIP

• Bontebok National Park: From R1,060 per night in a 3-bed chalet, camping from R210 per night. Phone 028-514-2735 or see sanparks.org/parks/bontebok

• Agulhas National Park: From R1,100 per night in a 2-bed chalet. Phone 028-435-6078 or see sanparks.org/parks/agulhas