Readers' Corner: In Seventh Heaven

Ektha Govind sails away into the eerie beauty of Antarctica

I snuggle into my sleeping bag. I've always loved camping, but this is taking things to a whole new level.

I'm lying on ground covered in a few meters of snow; down the hill are three Weddell seals sleeping; there is the constant sound of glaciers calving; it's 3am but still bright and, to top it off, it just started snowing. Welcome to Antarctica.

In January, my family and I decided to brave the "seventh continent". Departing from Ushuaia, Argentina, on the Ocean Diamond, a Quark Expeditions ship, we began our journey.

But before we reached our destination, we had to brave the Drake Passage. Known for rough conditions, this body of water, a meeting point for the Atlantic and Pacific, is considered the most difficult to cross.

After two slightly seasick days of "the Drake Shake", we hit calmer water, with icebergs waiting to greet us. The scenery was all islands and land covered in snow, with tall mountain peaks dotting the horizon and merging with the low-lying clouds.

As we neared our first landing in the South Shetland Islands, we saw a pod of Orcas (killer whales) swimming by, with the odd group of penguins diving in and out of the water like flying fish.

After donning our bright yellow parkas and putting on snow boots, we heading onto a zodiac for our first taste of this surreal environment. We were met on land by snow, the smell of guano and penguins, lots and lots of penguins.

We saw Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie penguins, all looking after their chicks and hilariously clumsy when walking on land.

Over the next six days, we were caught up in the beauty and majesty of this icy landscape - all soft, quiet, untouched and white.

Besides the landings and zodiac cruises, the ship offered several activities.

We enjoyed kayaking - dressed warmly in dry suits and sitting low on the water, we experienced a more personal moment with the land and animals.

At Neko Bay, we were surprised by a minke whale just 4m from us; a leopard seal and Weddell seal lazing on the ice; a huge glacier calving; and the joy of paddling among icebergs.

Another activity we embraced was cross-country skiing, which offered the most amazing views, often after hiking to great heights. The iceberg graveyard floated gently on one side and the ship was a mere speck on the other.

Skiing down was even more amazing, and really enhanced the sense of isolation.

One night, we camped on Ronge Island, where we could choose to sleep in just a sleeping bag or a tent. The climbers enjoyed ice hiking and some brave souls did the polar plunge, diving into 0.8°C waters in nothing but a Speedo.

The cruise was filled with expedition leaders, each with immense knowledge of the environment, ranging from Bob's stories of the first explorers to Tom's talks on penguins and other wildlife.

We were constantly followed by wandering albatrosses and learnt a great deal about the extensive bird life on this remote continent.

We passed through the beautiful Lemaire Channel, mountains dwarfing the ship on either side, and stopped over at Port Lockroy for some shopping and learning.

The entire experience felt like something out of a storybook.

Arriving back in Ushuaia after 10 days, we almost didn't believe we had really explored such a hidden treasure, with only pictures to compound our stories. It was a holiday I will truly never forget. - © Ektha Govind

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