From Beyoncé to Queen Elizabeth, how David Koma is taking over fashion

David Koma is a brand that is on everyone’s radar right now. In recent months, he has dressed the likes of Beyoncé, Dua Lipa, Kendall Jenner, Venus Williams and Simone Ashley. The sporty and seductive brand that captures the essence of the proverbial “it girl” has cemented itself as one of London’s hottest tickets. The Georgian-born designer presented his SS24 Collection during London Fashion Week on Saturday. We got to catch up with the designer exclusively in the final moments before the show.

What did the process of coming up with the collection involve?

The starting point for the collection were the images of Queen Elizabeth at the Chelsea Flower Show — she was the ever-present visitor to the annual event and an avid gardener. Inspired by the timeless beauty of these photos, florals, and especially roses, the official flowers of England, became the centrepiece of the collection.

While exploring the archival images of the Queen, I also came across a picture of the young princess on a motorcycle during her World War 2 military service, when she trained as a driver and a mechanic. The contrasting imagery inspired a collection that became a dialogue between her youthful biker attitude and the flower-coloured looks she favoured later in life. For me, this juxtaposition represents well the multifaceted femininity at the core of my imaginary “Koma Girl” and my brand.

What are some of the things you are most excited for people to see?

I am excited for people to take a close look at the details of the collection. There are some beautiful couture-esque elements such as hand-embroidered crystal and metal roses, and hand-shaped plexi petals layered on tulle, creating a fallen-leaf effect. They are also formed into delicate colourful rose flowers, and placed on contrasting leather jackets. I also love the classic 1960s daisy motif we reimagined in a crystal-effect floral lace and of course the prints — from oversized acidic roses on striking black backgrounds to climbing roses printed on transparent mesh dresses and leather thigh-high boots.

You have had a long relationship with Beyoncé right from your graduate collection. How has her support influenced the brand?

I have been very lucky to work with Beyoncé for over a decade now. Beyoncé was the first celebrity to support my brand, wearing a dress from my graduate collection to MTV EMA’s back in 2009. Last year we had an incredible moment for the opening performance of the Oscars — a neon yellow sequined look inspired by my tennis collection. And this year, Beyoncé wore four looks I created during the multiple dates of The Renaissance tour. A dream collaboration — and one that spans my entire career. 

From a personal standpoint, every time I see Beyoncé in David Koma I am excited and incredibly proud. Seeing powerful women in my designs is what motivates me season after season.

The visibility of the brand is incredible too. Social media mentions, digital and print articles, and just word of mouth — there is an immediate increase in interest. It does translate into sales. For example, the mother-of-pearl mesh print dress, the closest to what Beyoncé wore on stage, sold out on davidkoma.com that day. 

How did your time at Mugler influence your process and outlook on fashion?

Manfred Thierry Mugler has been an inspirational figure on my artistic journey ever since I was a child. I dreamt about being part of his vision and his house since I started designing as a teenager. During my tenure as a creative director at Mugler, getting access to the vast archive of his work was one of the highlights. My favourite pastime was watching hours of footage from his shows. Manfred Thierry’s work was an ultimate balance of provocation and art form. His ground-breaking sculptural designs, unparalleled garment construction and use of innovative materials is forever inspiring.

From Dr Sylvie Earle to Marlene Dietrich, you have been inspired by powerful women in history. Who are some women who influenced the David Koma Girl?

Indeed, I find a lot of inspiration in iconic women breaking boundaries, especially in male-dominated fields.

In the past I was inspired by Annette Kellerman — who popularised synchronised swimming in the early 20th century; Lily Parr — a successful English 1920s female footballer; marine biologist Dr Sylvia Earle — who led a first all-female diver group to spend 14 days living underwater in 1970; iconic Marlene Dietrich who pioneered androgynous dressing. To mention a few. 

My study of motorcycling attire started a few seasons ago when I turned to pioneering women of motorsport, Adeline and Augusta Van Buren. In 1916 they were the first women to traverse the US on solo motorbikes while campaigning for women’s rights. They were arrested multiple times on the way for wearing leather riding trousers, which was scandalous at the time. I love their stories. 

What do you hope people take away from this collection?

I want people to feel that I took a timeless element — florals — and reinterpreted them through my distinct modern lens. I want people to see this floral collection as strong and empowering, not classically perceived as delicate and ditsy.

What is next for David Koma and for you?

This season introduces a handbag range — four shapes in different sizes and finishes. I worked hard to create a range that would take you from day to night and cover all your needs. I’m sure that’s the next big thing.

We have a take on a classic flap bag called DK City Bag, inspired by the queen’s timeless choices and adorned with the DK logo. An oversized slouchy day bag proposed with motorcycle safety pads or in minimal smooth leather, that I called The Racer. A metal clutch in the shape of a rose thorn is a wearable sculpture. And a crossbody leather bag with structured metal sides inspired by military accessories.

As for myself — lots of travel including Paris for the market and New York for a series of events. I will also spend some quality family time and hang out with my eight-month-old miniature pinscher called Ruby.

Discover the David Koma brand and their chic offering on davidkoma.com and Instagram @davidkomalondon