A taste - bud getaway

Marianne Schwankhart finds plenty to go Ah! about in Paternoster

REASON TO RUN:

Sometimes you need not follow the road. We found Ah! guesthouse, recommended by friends, after a meandering trip in Western Cape.

It came close to R1000 a night.

ALL ABOUT IT:

The one thing that would make me choose a guesthouse over others in a place that is overwhelmed by good options is that it takes catering seriously.

Our friends, who went on a romantic weekend away and looked dreamy eyed on their return, recommended this place in Paternoster, so when we were there we stayed over.

The white-toned fishermen's village could be cliched, but when you've been on the road for a while, a good, clean, open stretch of beach with luxury living will quickly settle you down.

Fortunately, Ah! is right at the end of the road, so you can lie in your bed and gaze down the coastline without looking into your neighbour's kitchen.

The place is small and quaint, but elegant and private.

Supper is excluded from the given rates, but it's highly recommended to book yours with host and chef Arnold Hoon, who will sinfully let you overindulge in the exquisite flavours of the season, complemented with wines of the region.

I went to bed thinking: "That was one amazing dinner" and "I ate far too much". I thought about a morning fast.

But the next day, when we eventually got up, a three-course breakfast was waiting. Fluffy omelettes, crispy bacon, salmon, cream, asparagus - I can't even remember everything Arnold presented. Again, I couldn't resist.

And, at that, breakfast pretty much ended our day. On leaving the table, the only thing we could do was go back to bed.

I loved the attention given to little comforts, like the Helon Melon pure cotton linen, down pillows, Crabtree & Evelyn bath goodies, and a range of unusual and interesting literature.

We woke up just in time for a stroll to the beach to watch the sunset.

On the second night, we explored the rest of the village and had a much smaller, cheaper and more manageable dinner of traditional West Coast cuisine at Voorstrandt restaurant, a 108-year-old tin fisherman's cottage overlooking the ocean.

The Noisy Oyster is also well known for its good food, and booking is essential.

Whatever the time of year, there is always something in-season here. The crayfish season runs from November to April, snoek season is from April to July, whale season between July and December, flower season from July to October, and waders season is from September to April.

I blame all the food for not exploring the rest of the area. The next time I go, I will visit the penguin colony on a rocky outcrop in the bay. And, if the timing is right, I will spend days on the hills full of fynbos and indigenous flowers in bloom.

Other places of interest close by such as the Langebaan lagoon, West Cost National Park and the West Coast Fossil Park can keep you busy for a while.

DID IT LIVE UP TO EXPECTATIONS:

Yes, because of the attention to detail in everything, from the food to the pillows and sheets.