There are 50 shades of grey, and perhaps even more shades of black. And the blacker the better, as South African designers scramble for darker-hued models who are regarded as "edgy and classy".While international models such as Naomi Campbell and Nykhor Paul complain about lily-white catwalks, South Africans have gone to the other extreme.story_article_left2This week, about half the models at the South African Menswear Week Autumn/ Winter 2016 show in Cape Town were very dark.They walked for designers including Craig Jacobs, Julia M'Poko of Mo'ko Elosa and Jenevieve Lyons.Designer and fashion writer Chu Suwannapha, who showcased at the event last night, said his range was African and he felt "dark-skinned models translated my garments well. They always exude high fashion and most seem to have that attitude that portrays the clothes so beautifully on the runways."Popular on local runways is Jimi Ogunlaja, a Nigerian-born model and the face of 46664 Apparel, who has been walking ramps in South Africa for brands including Fabiani, Carducci and Craig Port since 2008.He said there had been an increase in the use of darker-skinned models since he started his career."Dark models are seen as edgy, they communicate class and interpret well on editorials. They are mostly big on runways and editorials," said Ogunlaja.However, they were not used as much in commercials, because clients liked to use models who were similar to their target audience.full_story_image_vleft1Agencies such as G3, Twenty, Ice and Boss have very dark-skinned models on their books.Samuel Mukhuwana, Akuol De Mabior, Dave Kabamba, Yemi Awoyemi, Aamito Lagum and Kaone Kario are some of the most popular dark-skinned models who have walked the big local fashion shows and graced the editorial pages of high-fashion magazines such as Marie Claire, Elle and Cosmopolitan.Ice Genetics director Donné le Grange said she found there was "a good balance in terms of ethnic diversity" in the two shows she attended."Darker African men certainly translate well on the catwalk, not just because of their skin tone, but often their features are strong and editorial," she said.South African-born model Sean McCollet said the "local male model's biggest challenge was height", which models from more northern African countries had as an advantage."The darker they are, the more they are seen as a rare commodity because we South Africans aren't often that dark," he said.full_story_image_hright2But black is less beautiful on international catwalks, and Campbell has often spoken out on the lack of diversity in the industry."I don't even like to use the word racism - [they're] ignorant. They just don't want to budge. They just don't want to change their idea or be more open-minded, to just [book] a beautiful girl regardless of creed or colour," said Campbell in a video interview series called Subjective in July last year.In the same month, South Sudanese model Paul, who has worked in Cape Town before, wrote a lengthy Instagram post addressing "white people in the fashion world".The 26-year-old said she had faced institutionalised discrimination from casting agents, designers, hair stylists and makeup artists."Please don't take this the wrong way but it's time you people get your s**t right when it comes to our complexion. Why do I have to bring my own makeup to a professional show when all the other white girls don't have to do anything but show up?" she wrote.But Campbell and Paul would have been proud of the ramps at South African Menswear Week, where makeup artists had included in their kit foundation for very dark skins.mbeleg@sundaytimes.co.za..