Claire Keeton delights in the fact that time seems to slow down at Dream Lodge From first light, birds serenade each other in a glade of thorn trees at Gecko Cottage, a romantic hideaway that's part of Dream Lodge in the Magaliesburg.They are the sole distraction at the cottage, which has no power and feels like a refuge from the 21st century.Black-crowned tchagra, orange-breasted bush shrike, white-browed scrub robin, black-headed oriole and yellow-fronted tinkerbird were among about a dozen calls I could identify after waking up. From the bed, we could see the acacia bush and aloes aflutter with wings.Time slows down here, enough to talk, read, sleep and dream, on a brass bed with a dream-catcher above it or an outdoor couch under thatch.story_article_left1Even before the rain floated in on Saturday afternoon, we were so relaxed that our plans to climb in the kloofs had shifted to Sunday. We revelled in the storm and the peace.After the clouds scattered and the sun came out, the scent of wet leaves drew me outdoors. I went for a run, losing a bet with my partner that I could do nothing for a day. By the time I got back, he had lit a fire for us in a pit, in a fairy glade near the cottage. Overlooking it is a double swing seat, ideal for sundowners and staring into the flames.We had a leisurely braai as the stars lit up and spiders cast layered webs across the path. The couch was comfortable for gazing at constellations, thinking about nothing much.Inside the cottage, later, I lit dozens of candles in alcoves in the rounded wall but it was too warm to light a fire. Stretching out in a Victorian bath, I listened to the fiery-necked nightjar claim the night.sub_head_start IF YOU GO sub_head_endWHY GO THERE: To escape the urban mayhem and have uninterrupted time in the bush with your partner or family, or alone. And to spot birds: more than 200 species have been recorded here.WHAT IT HAS: Dream Lodge has three cottages, each with distinctive features. The secluded Gecko Cottage, where we stayed, offers shade in summer. There is an Nguni hide on the floor, a brass bed and a pretty bathroom with a solar-heated bath.Agama Cottage is on a remote hilltop with panoramic views across the Magaliesburg. This stylish cottage is bigger than Gecko and has a bath with a view, on a raised platform in the bedroom, Outside is a solar-heated shower with the sign: "Expose yourself to nature."Chameleon Cottage, near the main Broken Hill farmhouse, has a kitchen and two bedrooms and is ideal for families. It has a wood-burning stove and a gas fridge. The kids' wing with bunk beds is on the other side of the verandah, giving parents the (off) chance of sleeping in. Children may join in farm routines such as collecting eggs and feeding goats.story_article_right2WHAT IT'S LIKE: The Magaliesburg range is about two million years old and forms part of a protected natural wilderness area, which was declared a world biosphere reserve last month. The Magaliesburg Biosphere will be registered by Unesco in October, joining 631 biospheres in 119 countries. The mountain ridge stretches about 120km. Dream Lodge is on the edge of the range but within easy reach of reserves such as Mountain Sanctuary Park.THE FOOD: Dinner and breakfast are unobtrusively delivered to your doorstep, in a picnic basket with a white linen table cloth and flask of boiling water (coffee addicts beware: there is no kettle here).The food is simple and sufficient but if you want luxuries, take them. Dinners start with salad or soup, followed by fillet, a stew or braai or vegan main, and desserts such as malva pudding. Breakfast is usually fruit salad, yoghurt, muesli, toasted health bread, coffee and juice. Omelettes can be made if the chickens deliver the eggs. Picnics can be booked for lunch.GETTING THERE: From Joburg, head to Magaliesburg via Tarlton. From Magaliesburg, drive west on the R509 road towards Koster. Measure 17.1km and then take the Wind in the Willows turn-off onto a dirt road. Watch out for trucks (which sometimes can be heard from the cottage). At this point, call Sam.RATES: R780 per person per night, R1,560 per night for the cottage.CONTACT: For bookings, call Sam Savage on 082-620-6369, e-mail sam@dreamlodge.co.za or see dreamlodge.co.za...