Top Chef: Something old, something new

Tshepo Lebese has been running the kitchen at Browns of Rivonia, a Sandton establishment, for almost a year now.

After hardworking stints in London and Brazil, he has returned to create a new menu for the 24-year-old restaurant set in a lush tropical garden.

"I have updated the food to an upmarket bistro style. My food is diverse with an element of different cultures," he says.

His wide menu selection is reminiscent of a five-star safari experience. It offers dishes that make use of local cooking methods and local ingredients.

For starters, my friend and I shared the calamari steak, perfectly tender and served with a fresh vegetable salsa. For the ostrich trio we sampled potjie-cooked ostrich, ostrich wrapped in phyllo pastry and an ostrich stew served on a bed of mash. It was a heavy choice for a hot day, but the flavours were gentle and well integrated. Carrots featured strongly. We also had the beef fillet, chargrilled and served with a vegetable casserole and roasted potatoes and drizzled with a sun-dried tomato demi-glaze. Even though beef fillet is known to be low on flavour, it was perfectly browned on both sides, tender and easy to eat.

Lebese says it doesn't seem so long ago that he was washing dishes and peeling potatoes in London. After studying at Tshwane College, the Pretoria-born chef headed to the UK, where he received his hospitality training at Michelin-starred hotels and worked with celebrity chefs Christophe Navarre and Adam Simmonds. He also spent three years cooking on a cruise ship with Italian, French, Asian and Indian chefs.

The menu may have been rejuvenated, but Browns has maintained its farmhouse style decor and still provides impeccable service.

Lebese's ever-evolving menu is paired with an extensive wine list. Both local and international wines are offered. The restaurant has four wine cellars in which 33000 bottles of wine are stored.

Once a month the restaurant invites 50 guests to a wine evening at which they are served four-course meals. Earlier this month, La Motte vintages were served with Asian seafood and goat cheese terrine to start. The main course was rabbit and duck meat followed by a cheese parcel.

Crepe suzette was served for dessert. The restaurant believes cheese is the ideal prelude to dessert and a full fromagerie is housed in the wine cellar.

Lebese says he never planned to be a chef, but always knew he could use his hands to be creative.

His plans to travel the world landed him the title "the chef who has seen the seven seas".

• Browns of Rivonia, 21 Wessel Road, Rivonia 011-803-7533