Top Tips: The world's best restaurants

22 January 2014 - 02:20 By © The Telegraph, London
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NOBUYUKI MOTSUHISA
NOBUYUKI MOTSUHISA

Known around the world as Nobu, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa travelled from his native Japan to South America before settling in Los Angeles and opening his first restaurant, Matsuhisa, in Beverly Hills in 1987.

His 27 eponymous restaurants, developed with Robert de Niro, are found throughout the world.

When I'm dining out privately, I tend to avoid fine-dining venues. I like things to feel casual. When service is overly attentive I become uncomfortable - I don't like it, for example, when a waiter tops up my glass as soon as I take a sip of water. It is better when you realise you need something, and then the waiter is immediately available. You can say the service is good when it isn't intrusive, but comes straight away when required. That's what I aim for in my restaurants.

Decor is important too, of course, but the emphasis needs to be on ensuring the customer is comfortable. There needs to be a sense that you're somewhere special, with delicious food, smiling customers and a soundtrack provided by people talking and laughing. That being said, here are my top five restaurants:

Ristorante da Fiore, Venice

I went to Venice for the first time back in the 1990s, to do cookery demonstrations at the Hotel Cipriani with Marcella Hazan. Hazan introduced me to Ristorante da Fiore, and I still stop by every time I'm in town. You might just have something simple like pasta with soft-shell crab or truffles, or a plate of fresh squid, but it's always beautifully done and has a unique flourish.

Tenko, Tokyo

This is a traditional, family-owned restaurant set in what was once a geisha house. Diners sit at a horseshoe-shaped counter as the chef cooks directly before them, then the tempura is served one piece at a time rather than all together . It's a wonderful way to eat. You're never full up and the batter is so light . If you want to try tempura in Japan, this is the best place.

Yan Toh Heen, Hon Kon

Yan Toh Heen, at the InterContinental, serves Chinese cuisine; its Peking duck is very famous, the dim sum isn't at all greasy and its presentation is beautiful. All in all, the flavours are light and the dishes are healthy . The space itself is decorated in a Chinese style but with modern elements, and there are harbour views .

Le Bernardin, New York

Eric Ripert is the young - well, younger than me - French chef behind Le Bernardin. He's got a nice personality, and that's something that's important for chefs. He serves French cuisine and seafood is a speciality; he's very good with details and presentation. The space itself is beautiful and formal and popular with high-society diners.

Paper moon, Milan

It's a casual place that serves good salad, pizza and pasta. The space is tight with tables close together and it feels buzzy. Food comes out fast, too. I always eat at the same table and am served by the same waiters so we know each other, but if you go for the first time it may not appear immediately friendly. The staff don't smile, but they don't need to. The team has been there for a long time and their timing is perfect.

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