Best in show: Our jury has spoken

Three fashion experts choose their favourite collections at SA Fashion Week

Nicola Cooper: The black coffee installation

The installation by Black Coffee really pushed the boundaries of fashion and art, blurring the avant garde with the wearable.

Jacques van der Watt puts on an remarkable show, with clothes unlike anything we've ever seen. Take those outfits apart and they are everyday wearables.

The designer accessed the global trend of Afro-futurism that is putting Africa at the cutting edge of world fashion. There was a hint of exoticism in his dresses, and the hat pieces also had an Asian quality. South Africa's middle class is growing in diversity and we are revelling in a mash-up of cultures and transference between them. Black Coffee's show is most representative of this.

• Cooper is Flux Trends' senior trend analyst in fashion, lifestyle and pop culture

Sylvia McKeown: The Anmari Honiball collection

The sea of fashionable people loitering in the foyer of Rosebank's Crowne Plaza reminded me of Lena Dunhum's line in Girls: "I think I may be the voice of my generation. Or at least a voice of a generation." There's a trend afoot among the young "garment conscious" - and she is Anmari Honiball.

"My clothes rebel against glam and fantasy. Maybe the 20-somethings relate to the edginess of my garments," said Honiball presenting her collection, Secret Shapes.

Making clothes inspired by the lines and shapes created in the folds of tarpaulins strapped across loaded trucks is one way to rebel. Her background in fine arts helps her create unusual and unique garments - she uses the fabrics in the same way she would approach a large abstract painting.

This investigation and playfulness has yielded a collection awash with baby blues and melting metallic contrasts. Missing her usual signature fine strips of colour, she opted instead for larger-scale patchwork.

Look for more flashes of liquid gold and baby-blue shin-length numbers, as seen in her collection, among the throng at Rosebank Crowne Plaza next season.

• McKeown is a fashion writer and blogger

Mahlatse James: JD by Shaldon Kopman

The mood this year signalled a retail-ready direction, which means local designers aim to cater for buying customers. Keeping with the theme of accessible designer wear, Shaldon Kopman of Naked Ape collaborated with retailer Jonathan D to create a collection worthy of their standing ovation.

The presentation looked competitive with international labels in the sense that, in addition to demonstrating globally relevant trends in menswear, Kopman's signature high-quality detail was visible. I specifically liked the colour combinations in the pattern-blocking technique on T-shirts, golfers and button-up shirts alongside more muted tones.

Since the South African man is seldom dressed in formal wear, JD allows the average man to invest in comfortable clothing without risking an affected appearance. It was a perfect juxtaposition of well-tailored designs and the dressed-down elements associated with both brands.

The introduction of locally manufactured sneakers with a brogue design crossed style and age boundaries.

• James is a blogger, fashion commentator and stylist