Stumble across Umhlanga's 14 on Chartwell gastropub on a Friday night and you might feel slightly out of place in your comfortable T-shirt and sensible shoes.That's when the precinct's glitterbugs get all dressed up to swarm the gold-lit modern bar with their possible model friends.Sunday afternoon is the day to go if you're primarily there for the sports on TV and the food. That's when you'll find the flip-flopped crowd nursing their craft beers to revel in the comforts of butter-basted T-bone steak or a portion of cider-soaked mussels.The menu is expansive, slightly too much. It teases with smothered chicken breasts with sundried tomato basil parmesan cream sauce; barbecue pork ribs; vegetarian mushroom ragout.There's brown butter lime salmon with wasabi mash and beans, coconut cashew chicken curry, lobster mac 'n cheese.To pique our appetites we ask for starters of halloumi, fig and prosciutto spring rolls with a sweet chilli dipping sauce and Sriracha honey chicken wings with blue cheese dipping sauce.The spring rolls are neat, folded pale gold rolls of warm pastry, but their halloumi innards edge out the taste of fig and prosciuttor.The sauce is special: sweetness gives way to a subtle heat.The four glistening honey chicken wings are a chance to find out what the Americans have been banging on about at last. The Thai-origin chilli sauce has ranked alongside bacon and cheese in internet cult status in recent years.Again, the chilli is cleverly layered - its kick builds up progressively with each bite.Enter the main. A lamb shank pie of obscene proportions (R140) with a portion of chips. We're sharing.The crust splinters into delicate shards, the spiced red wine and vegetable gravy is plentiful but underseasoned.The shank, thankfully, is fall-off-the-bone tender. It looks grand though - enough that a passing diner stops to ask what it is.14 Chartwell Drive, Umhlanga. Open 11am to 11pmThe lowdownWhen to goOn a Thursday or Friday if you're feeling a little fancy, on the weekend if you're just after a few beers and a solid meal.Who to takeAn eater who isn't a quitter.What not to doDrive up and down Chartwell hoping for a good parking spot. Use the rooftop parking across the street.What to drinkThe drinks menu would warm a Viking's heart. There are ales, ciders, lagers, pilseners. There are craft spirits and cocktails. There is wine.How much do you need?Drinks prices are comprehensive, from R30 for some craft beers and small batch spirits upwards. Starters are R30 to R70, mains R70 to R185...