FONDUE: Winter calls out for melted cheese. And melted cheese has no finer place than in a fondue. Don't let the lack of a fondue pot put you off making this at home. Of course a pot atop a burner is ideal, but a really good, thick-bottomed pot or other vessel will do fine. If you put the vessel on the table with a thick cloth wrapped around it, or even atop a few bricks pre-heated in the oven, the cheese will stay warm enough for the dunking session. Also, the universe will not explode if you use normal forks instead of fondue sticks. It might though, if you insist on playing those mortifying "fondue-punishment" games, in which people losing their piece of bread must remove an item of clothing, or similar. They are too cheesy (sorry).The recipe below is pretty much foolproof. It combines Emmentaler and Gruyère, and includes lemon juice. The addition of lemon juice is essential: it aids in stabilising the emulsion of melted cheese and wine. Keeping the heat very low stops the fondue from splitting. For 4-6 eaters: 1 clove garlic, halved, 1 cup good dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc, plus a little more as needed, 250g Emmentaler cheese, grated, 250g Gruyère cheese, grated, 1 tablespoon cornflour, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon kirsch (optional), salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste. How: Rub cut faces of garlic cloves around the inside of a thick-bottomed pot (or a bowl set over a pot of simmering water, if no thick-bottomed, flame-proof vessel in sight). Pour in wine and heat until steaming. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss both cheeses with the cornflour to coat evenly. Working over low heat, add the cheese 1 handful at a time, stirring until mostly melted before adding more. Continue until all cheese is melted, forming a smooth, glossy sauce. It's crucial that the fondue stays below a simmer once you start adding cheese, or you risk it splitting. Stir in lemon juice (and kirsch, if using). Season with salt and pepper. If fondue begins to thicken too much, add a small splash of wine to loosen it. Transfer mix to fondue pot or other pre-warmed vessel (if not already in said vessel). Serve with best bread, cubed, and raw or lightly blanched vegetables for dipping.Of course, great cheese is non-negotiable here. My best place for brilliant (and mostly local) cheese is, as always, Cheese Gourmet in Linden. They have an incredible array, including a very good choice of Gruyères and Emmentalers, and can also direct you regarding substitutions. Cheese Gourmet, 3rd Avenue, Linden, 011-888-5384..