German delis and adventurous eating

15 July 2011 - 00:38 By Andrea Burgener
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Andre Burgener has been immersed in all things food since she took over the making of the family's lunch box sandwiches aged eight (her mom could make a mean creme brulee and a staggering souffle, but could never butter the bread all the way to the edges.

THINK SCHNITZEL, NOT MORTADELLA

SAY the word deli, and for most people an Italianate, or at least Mediterranean, affair springs to mind. German delis, meanwhile - perhaps because the offerings are not part of current food trends - are frequented by a niche audience.

And so, many wondrous goods go unexplored by otherwise curious eaters.

My childhood was peppered with many of these glorious comestibles, and I still consider them essential staples in my kitchen - brilliant mustards, pickles and, of course, sauerkrauts.

Never leave without a jar of apfelkraut (dark apple jam) or zuckerubenkraut (molassesy sugar-beet spread, sublime with cream cheese on rye).

Packet potato dumplings should also go into your basket. Find it at Schwaben Deli, Meadovale Value Centre, Edenvale (011-454-0160), and Raith Delicatessen, Gardens Shopping Centre, Cape Town. (021-465-2729).

COOKING THE BOOKS

The Extraordinary Cookbook. How could I not take a peek inside? Stefan Gates, well-known British foodist, has two stated ambitions: "1. To blow your mind. 2.To transform your meals into adventures". I'm so glad I bought the book.

Dishes range from the adventurous (frogs legs, nettle soup, barbecued oysters), to the what-were-you-smoking weird (pickled eggs in a bag of crisps) and lots in- between .

The recipes actually work and are truly delicious. Also, check out his entertaining ramblings at thegastronaut. com. Published by Kyle Cathie Limited, R307.

SWEET TALKING

Don't scoff: these banana fritters are made with a great batter recipe. Eaten immediately, with good ice-cream and a drizzle of lemon-syrup, they are one of life's great pleasures.

You Need: six bananas / ½ cup each rice flour, cake flour, water/ ½ teaspoon baking powder / ¼ cup coconut milk / ½ teaspoon salt / ¼ cup white sesame seeds / 1½ tablespoons sugar / vegetable oil for deep frying. You Do: Combine batter ingredients, including seeds (not compulsory, but they add loads of flavour).

Peel and slice bananas diagonally into three pieces. Chuck into batter to coat. Deep-fry until golden. Drain on paper towels, and serve pronto with accoutrements suggested.

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