Separating the soya from the big agriculture chaff

A current radio ad for soya in various forms - supporting cricket or something even more athletic perhaps - proclaims unequivocally that soya is a health food of fairly epic proportions. These are strong words. Irresponsible words, it may turn out.

Soya is a minefield. The jury is hung on whether it is a health food or a scourge. Some tout it as healthy while a growing voice (comprising those with less moola to gain from the argument) is coming down hard on the side of scourge.

Mary-Ann Shearer (remember her? South Africa's first real health guru) was telling us that soya was bad news decades ago. But the message couldn't cut through the big business brainwashing.

Now Tim Noakes and Co - the current nutrition gods - have soya pinned as positively dangerous. And they're not the only ones.

But Asians have been eating soya for centuries, right? Yes, I knew you were thinking that.

Here's the thing though: a traditional Asian diet only includes soya in fermented form (soya sauce, miso, tofu, natto) which renders its toxic ingredients non-toxic. Also, it's eaten in small amounts.

The West is now eating it largely unfermented and in great bulk. And why? Because, along with maize, it is one of the most profitable crops to grow. That is why it is fed to industrial farm animals. That is why it is used as a bulking agent in everything from wheat bread and cakes to mayo. That is why we're being told it is a superfood.

The environmental and health issues (including the worrying question of hormone activity) are too vast and complex to address here. But do some serious reading before you buy that next litre of soya milk. If you're vegetarian and stuck with soya sausages, I suggest these delicious white bean sausages, an adaptation of a Nigel Slater recipe.

White bean & Coriander sausages

Serves 4: 250g dry canneloni or butter beans / 1 small onion, finely chopped / 1 clove garlic, finely slivered / 1 small red chilli, seeded and slivered / 1 free-range egg / 75g mature hard cheddar or parmesan-style cheese, grated / 2 teaspoons finely chopped coriander / salt and white pepper to season. To coat: a little flour for hands / one beaten egg / 1 cup fine breadcrumbs / enough vegetable oil to deep-fry.

Soak beans in water overnight. Simmer in fresh water for 45 minutes, covered. They're done when easily crushable. Mash beans with potato masher, and mix with all else except the coating ingredients. Chill, then shape into thick sausage shapes. Flour your hands well, roll them in the egg, then the crumbs, and deep-fry for around six minutes. Eat with sharp mayo (soya-free), lemon or tzatziki.