Brand Wars: Local designers guard their turf

International high street fashion brands such as Zara and Topshop have, according to local trend analyst Dion Chang, hurt local designers, causing some, like Tiaan Nagel, to close shop.

With 60%, or about 71000, of Africa's millionaires resident in South Africa, the country has a well-developed luxury brand awareness.

Market intelligence company Euromonitor International found that between 2008 and 2013, sales of luxury brands in Africa grew by 35%, and sales are forecast to increase by 33% in the next five years.

''Retail is a war zone, and with the recession, local retailers can't compete on price," said Chang.

Jenny Andrew, one of South Africa's top magazine stylists, said South African designers need to offer something unique to appeal to the consumer - not to compete with high street fashion brands and luxury brands.

''If David Tlale's bag is beautiful, desirable and costs R5000, people will buy it. It boils down to what people can afford. Local designers need a unique signature to compete with the marketing machines of big international brands," said Andrew.

JJ Schoeman, a South African designer adored by beauty queens and celebrities for his gowns , said: ''High street fashion brands are not a problem because they don't offer high quality material in South Africa, and we offer something original."

Some commentators believe that international high street fashion brands have had a positive effect on local designers.

''Now they have to improve their strategies and get creative," said Nicola Cooper, Flux Trends' senior trend analyst in fashion, lifestyle and pop-culture.

''We're a trend-conscious country and we like to keep up with international styles. Consumers want soft fashion trends at a reasonable price, but at the same time, they want unique tailored clothes which tell a story," said Cooper.

Hermanna Rush is a ready-to-wear fashion brand based in Johannesburg. Their second store is opening soon in Bryanston.

One of the designers from Hermanna Rush, Jackie Corsield, said: ''We're realistic about our market and tailor our designs to what our clients want."