New Restaurant: The cultural etiquette of dim sum explained by a pro

23 April 2014 - 09:34 By Sandiso Ngubane
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GIMME SOME: Beijing Opera owner Yang Zhao
GIMME SOME: Beijing Opera owner Yang Zhao
Image: THOMAS HOLDER

Dim sum is best served warm, says Yang Zhao, the owner of Beijing Opera, a new dim sum restaurant in De Waterkant, Cape Town.

It is not the first place in town to serve the traditional Cantonese dumplings, but Zhao, who is from Guangdong Province, China, has an edge. Her upbringing lends Beijing Opera its authenticity.

"As a concept, dim sum is different to Western-style cuisine, where everything is at the table at once. It is supposed to be eaten as it comes out," she says, adding that places that serve dim sum often get this wrong as they seek to stick to the dictates of Western dining.

"The 20-minute waiting period shouldn't be applied to dim sum."

Zhao came to South Africa as a teenager 16 years ago. Unable to speak English, the restaurateur says it was a big culture shock. She learnt English, fast, to make friends.

"That would explain my wannabe South African accent," she jokes.

"I tried to start a design business twice after varsity. It didn't work out. Eventually I decided to travel. I went on a backpacking trip in Europe. By the time I came back I had a lot of debt."

A friend who worked with the You, Me and Everyone We Know market at the Labia Theatre had become a fan of Zhao's dim sum.

"I used to just make some for myself, but she suggested we start running a stall at the market."

For this, Zhao teamed up with another friend from China, but the latter left the business just two markets later. Soon Zhao found herself catering for functions. Pop-up food stalls and other catering activities cemented her name in the foodie scene.

Two years later , Zhao opened the doors to Beijing Opera. The restaurant is now a popular weekday lunch spot and on Saturdays it is packed.

Fillings include peanut and pork, prawn and chives, pepper, chilli and shrimp and some vegetarian options.

3-9 Rose Street, De Waterkant, Cape Town, 072-530-9654

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