Grab a bite: The bigger bagel

17 September 2014 - 02:09 By Kim Maxwell
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"Bagel holes are overrated," says Matthew Freemantle. "The hole is by definition nothing, so a small hole is a bit of a trademark because we want to give more bagel. It also makes them easier to fill."

You wouldn't expect so much thought to go into a round shape, but at newly opened Max Bagel in Bree Street, Cape Town, it is all about details.

A toasted, sesame seed bagel hits the spot with classic cream cheese, capers, pickled red onion and Richard Bosman smoked Franschhoek trout. Then there's Frankie Fenner free-range salt beef brisket with pickle and mustard, a vegetarian fennel, leek and cream cheese, or try the smoked chicken and coleslaw version.

Filled bagels cost R35 to R45 and come in plain, spelt, seeds and onion, or cinnamon-raisin. Handmade in a Woodstock bakery in the traditional way, they are boiled in malt syrup before being baked.

Former journalist Freemantle, 34, and his chef partner, Andrew Kai, 36, are not new to the food business. Trading as Gusto, they have cooked paella at local markets since 2010. They also host concept supper clubs. They met while working in a London bar in 2002. A few business ideas later, they are still good mates.

Max Bagel happened after Freemantle and Kai secured a Bree Street shop space the size of a shoebox. When Kai returned from a trip to New York early this year, they knew what to do: quality bagels, juice and coffee. To go.

"People are often rushed at lunchtime. In Bree Street, you sit down at a restaurant and spend a bit. Or have a samosa and chip roll," says Freemantle. "This is something affordable in between. We've had support from neighbouring offices and students."

Takeaway coffee is an African blend from Rosetta Roastery, and three juice options are squeezed to order.

The space has already caught the attention of www.wallpaper.com (see August 2014). Jakob Basson shopfitted the counter hatch and cabinets, and a Tom Dixon lamp dangles from the ceiling. A copper and wood stepladder from Xandre Kriel props up one wall, and Kriel's "passion gap" steel benches provide compact seating.

Have fun waiting for your bagel order while scrutinising the Plasticine artworks by Ben Johnson and Dale Laurence.

  • Max Bagels, 120 Bree Street. Weekdays 7am to 4pm. 076-042-0224, www.maxbagels.com

Where to eat

The Open Book Festival starts today, with sessions running throughout each day until Sunday, at Cape Town's Fugard Theatre (corner Caledon and Lower Buitenkant streets). Here are neighbourhood eating suggestions if you are attending:

Dias tavern

A sports bar with dining at tired maroon banquettes and tacky red plastic chairs, it is the most restaurant-like space in the area and only a hop from the theatre. Find homely Madeira-Portuguese fare including squid tentacles, beef trinchado, espetada and peri-peri chicken, plus wine or beer. 15 Caledon Street. Call 021-465-7547. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Lefty's dive bar

Bypass the bar and take a table in the dining room. If the signature Kentucky chicken waffle (with bacon and syrup) seems odd, the tender, tasty strip of pork ribs is worth having. The pulled pork sandwich is another option. 103 Harrington Street. Call 021-461-0407. Open Monday for dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.

Dowtown Ramen

Up a rickety staircase from Lefty's, this new noodle bar is great for grabbing a bite and a beer. Order a steaming bowl of braised Shoyu pork belly or vegetarian tofu noodle broth. To snack on, lighter Asian bau comes with meat or vegetarian. 103 Harrington Street. Call 021-461-0407. Open Monday to Saturday from 6pm.

Truth Coffeecult

Sipping the "resurrection" coffee is only one aspect of this cafe with steampunk decor. Order Benedict and BLTs early or pop in for "elevenses", all-day items from 11am. Find rectangular pizzas, pasta and tuna nicoise on the menu later in the day. Fully licensed. 36 Buitenkant Street. Call 021-200-0440. Monday to Friday from 7am to 6pm, Saturday until 4pm and Sunday until 2pm.

I love my laundry

Adjacent to The Book Lounge, take a seat at this eclectic space for coffee and sweet nibbles, a glass of quality wine (they retail wine too) or steamed dim sum in pork, tofu or wild mushrooms. 50 Buitenkant Street. Call 078-105-6280. Monday to Saturday, 7am to 7pm.

YO! Meatball

At this friendly spot (more suited to takeaway eating) R55 buys meatballs (chicken, chickpea and coriander, lamb or beef), a sauce and sides (think sweet potato mash, salad, gnocchi). Only some items are freshly made. 77 Roeland Street. Call 071-274-1725. Open daily from 11am to 10pm.

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