Restaurant Review: Food, but not as we know it

13 May 2015 - 02:21 By Andre Nagel

Not all food is created equal. At northern Johannesburg restaurant DW Eleven-13 food goes beyond the call of duty, doing extraordinary things to your taste buds. Even if you don't know that the chef, Marthinus Ferreira, worked at La Colombe in Cape Town as chef de partie, with Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck in the UK and as commis chef at Gordon Ramsay's Boxwood Café, the exquisitely conceived dishes - the complementary textures and flavours and carefully constructed pairings - ensure each plate speaks for itself.Before you've made your selection from the menu you know you're in for a treat with the presentation of a silver, multi-tiered tray of home-made breads and spreads including red-wine butter and heavenly truffle fluff. There is a degustation menu - the chef selects a range of complementary dishes that you can have paired with wines - and an à la carte menu for the less committed.The quail with langoustine, quail egg, corn, lentils, truffle oil and tarragon velouté was recommended as a starter and we also tried the seared salmon, cucumber ketchup, charred cucumber, apple, salmon roe and oyster coulis.For mains we went for the sea bass with porcini, candied carrots, charred leek, stuffing and sherry jus, and the Bonsmara rump with smoked bone marrow, parsnip purée, spinach, onion, carrots and beef jus.The perfectly cooked beef combined with rich marrow and offset by the fresh, juicy flavours of spinach, parsnip and carrots was delicious, and the combination of fish and mushroom paste was also inspired.The lowdownWhat to eat?The degustation menu if you want to taste a lot of what's on offer, including two dessertsWhen to go?When you're in the mood to have your palate tickled pink at the expense of your walletWho to take?British food critic AA GillWhat to drink?Allow sommelier Patson Mathonsi to recommend wines, all from small local vineyardsWhat not to do?Leave without having dessert. Although starters and mains are more than filling, it's a shame not to finish off with pumpkin cheesecake with latte ice cream or apple crumble ice cream with pistachio creamHow much?A three-course meal for two with wine pairings and coffee will set you back about R1000Where is it?Dunkeld West Shopping centre, corner Jan Smuts Avenue and Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 011-341-0663..

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