Hooked on a feeling only surfers know

24 August 2015 - 02:02 By Roxy Davis

Let's face it, we don't get out of bed without incentive. Research tells us our main motivations for going to work are affirmation, good working relationships and remuneration. But what is it about surfing that makes you keep going back?Someone said in the 1980s: "Only a surfer knows the feeling."This is so true. You will never fully understand the feeling until you try it for yourself.For me, it's the freedom that each wave presents, the opportunity and the choice. It's my quiet place.I wondered if others were drawn by the same rewards so I posted the question on social media and within minutes I had answers. There were two main threads to the many responses.It's good for you: "It makes me feel 10 years younger." "It's my soul food." "Surfing is my best therapy for healing." "It is also great exercise; I'm using muscles I never knew I had."It's time out: "Out there I can live in the moment." "At my age it has given me a whole new challenge in life; I needed to be challenged."So why not just add a little saltwater, an incredible sunrise, throw in some endorphins and maybe a dolphin or two... who knows, it may change your life forever.Where will that wave be taking me this weekend? Today we have an offshore wind on the Atlantic, with a small wave at Long Beach and Doodles. The wind will remain southerly all weekend with a pushing swell, so I recommend staying on the Atlantic for a few more fun ones.The wind does drop from 11am on Sunday, making Muizenberg a great option too.For non-surfers ready to take the plunge, head to Muizenberg and get your dose of that "feeling only a surfer knows"...

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