Déjà vu can be fashionable

19 May 2016 - 02:00 By Mary Corrigall

It's unexpected for a fashion designer to declare they hate fashion. But it's not surprising Nicola West makes this statement during casual conversation at the launch of her W35T Winter collection, because she doesn't do fashion.She does fashion shows, fashion launches, however modest, like this one in a slip of a place on Shortmarket Street in the Mother City. Fashion people like her clothing. Art world people love it too. Nevertheless, West is very anti-fashion. She has no idea what is in fashion at the moment."I don't give a shit about trends," said the designer. Of course, lots of designers say this and you find the odd trend item in their collection. West, who started her label in 2010, might eventually succumb to this but for now she does the same collection each season.This winter collection is a case in point. Most of the styles are familiar. The buzz around each garment lies in the kind of fabric they have been translated into this season.In summer her signature boxy midriff top, luxe tracksuit trousers and batwing coat were all rendered in floaty light white fabrics or were made in her splattered paint-patterned fabrics. This winter she's translated these styles in a different palette and fabrics. She was inspired by the four elements."I wanted a waterproof item that would represent water, and a garment that would represent earth and fire."It's likely these styles will pop up again next season and maybe the one after that. West is perfecting these items.She wants to create the ultimate capsule collection. In fashion parlance this refers to core garments that every woman needs in her wardrobe in order to survive each season. West's inspiration for her capsule collection is herself; she set out to make clothing that suited her body and taste.This is why you'll find a pair of drawstring trousers in a see-through mesh fabric as part of her winter collection. You could wear a pair of her silver leggings underneath them on a cold day. Play with your clothing, that seems to be West's ethos.W35T is available at the Biscuit Mill's Neighbourgoods Market, Woodstock, Cape Town on Saturdays. AKJP, Kloof Street in Cape Town and Convoy, The Bamboo Centre, Melville, Joburg...

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