Restaurant review: Tiny plates, giant taste

20 July 2016 - 10:20 By Andrea Nagel

Dividing the menu by cooking method is novel in Johannesburg, as is serving up small plates of experimental flavour fusions.Capetonians who frequent places such as Liam Tomlin's Chef's Canteen and Warehouse are used to tapas-style mini servings that have a riot of tastes. Joburgers, in general, are not.That's why Angelo Scirocco, South Africa's entrant for the 2015 Young Chef awards in Milan, was advised not to take the concept to Joburg when he left Chef's Canteen last year. But despite the warnings, he's thriving at Urbanologi in Ferreirasdorp.The space is cavernous but it's been cleverly put together with furniture by award-winning interior designer Haldane Martin.The ceramic plates by Mervyn Gers are jade green and contrast the hard edges. The style is urban industrial; pockets of warmth are created by the booth seating on couches in bottle-green leather.It's the food that's exceptional. Menu items are listed by cooking style: fried, kushiyaki (skewered and grilled meat), steamed, cured, frozen, and raw.It's worth trying one dish of each. The idea, according to our waiter, is to "harness the character of street food with an avant garde thought process inspired by tastes that complement beers brewed on site".Try the entire menu. We had the crispy caramel pork shoulder with persimmon, date purée and Gorgonzola mousse from the fried section (R60); doenjang glazed beef cheeks kushiyaki with truffled cauliflower purée and wild mushrooms ( tender and delicious - my favourite of the day - R73); plum sake, flame-roasted langoustine with a spicy langoustine and coconut broth and Somen noodles (R130); apple-jalapeno cured octopus and tuna tataki - raw turnip and spicy coriander-lime dressing from the cured section (R75); and heirloom tomato with oyster and horseradish snow from the frozen section (R42).Nothing disappointed.To make a reservation go to urbanologi.co.zaNEED TO KNOWHOW MUCHJust over R1000 for four of us with a few beers.DRINKThe Mad Giant does four beers - a Pilsner, weiss, a pale ale and an amber ale.WHO TO TAKEAnyone who loves food artistry.DON'TTake anyone who only wants meat, rice and potatoes.DONotice the great staff uniforms.ADDRESS1 Fox Street, Ferreirasdorp, Johannesburg, 011-492-1399 ALSO IN THE AREATHE GOOD LUCK BAR, 1 Fox Street, Ferreirastown, 084-683-4413Live music venue and bar with industrial decor to match the rest of the establishments in the area. It serves food like pizza, prawns and chicken waffles.MAD GIANT BREWERY, 1 Fox Street, Ferreirastown, madgiant.co.zaUrbanologi is within the fresh urban setting of Mad Giant. It provides an exceptional drinking and dining experience, producing craft beers like the Guzzler, Killer Hop, True Grit and Electric Light...

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