Mexican stand-off: Better than just tequila

14 September 2016 - 10:25 By Sandiso Ngubani
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If you're like most people, then "Mexican food" conjures up images of tacos, burritos, spicy flavours and, of course, salsa and the simple but delicious avo-based dip, guacamole.

HECHO EN MEXICO: Mexican tuna with marrow reduction, (above) and chef Jorge Valejo's signature dish, huazontles (insert) at his restaurant Quintonil in Mexico City
HECHO EN MEXICO: Mexican tuna with marrow reduction, (above) and chef Jorge Valejo's signature dish, huazontles (insert) at his restaurant Quintonil in Mexico City

But if one Mexican chef has anything to do with it, you'll be enticed to delve a little deeper into the culinary diversity of the country, its culture and people.

Starting Thursday, through Friday, globally renowned Mexican master chef Jorge Valejo will share a kitchen with celebrated South African chef Luke Dale Roberts at his award-winning The Test Kitchen restaurant in Cape Town.

The pairing of chefs is part of a Mexican government initiative to promote the country to millennials specifically. The initiative is called Ven a comer, which translates to "come and eat" - an invitation to explore Mexico through its flavours. The thinking goes: millennials travel more than any other generation and have reshaped the travel industry with their expectations of immersive experiences rather than the usual sightseeing, for example.

Mauricio Escanero, Mexico's ambassador to South Africa, says: "The purpose of the initiative is to share our culinary culture - recognised as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity by Unesco - with the rest of the world. We're speaking of a millennial culture, with a very heterogeneous and rich cuisine, full of varieties and also open to exploring and trying new tastes."

 

The ambassador says Mexico and South Africa are working to become closer cultural partners. "We're trying to capitalise on the fact that Mexico and South Africa are two beautiful nations rich in history and natural and cultural diversity."

For Valejo, whose restaurant Quintonil in Mexico City ranks at No12 in the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, says while the flight to South Africa is long it's worth it.

"South African wines have already gained my attention in terms of gastronomic pairings," he says, adding that the collaboration with Dale Roberts has been on the cards for a few months as part of Ven a Comer. "I thought it made sense to come to South Africa after meeting him."

Valejo believes Mexican cuisine is much more complex and dynamic than most people outside Mexico realise.

"For instance, regionalism is astonishingly present. Homes that are separated by a few hundred metres, have completely different ways of cooking the same complex dishes."


MUY BIEN: Jorge Vallejo of Mexico

 

One of Valejo's signature dishes is huazontles (a Mexican herb), cooked in two ways, with cheese from Chiapas, tomato salsa and habanero chillies. It incorporates Mexican ingredients and reflects an interest in new techniques.

Tacos and other popular Mexican cuisine that we're most familiar with is largely street food, says Valejo. It's been misrepresented outside Mexico.

"Tortillas come in different colours depending on the maize used or different shapes depending on their use."

They're not like the ones you buy here in boxes from supermarkets.

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