Restaurant review: Through the looking glass

05 October 2016 - 10:00 By Sylvia McKeown

Pretoria's +27 Café is like Narnia. It looks inconspicuous on the outside with its small window and tiny counter top, but once you step through the door and out the back you will find another world of students on laptops and the cool kids of Pretoria digging into the new menu of rising food star Khanya Mzongwana. The space has had many iterations over the past eight years, but it has always striven to be a place where the hip kids of the capital can hang out. The last time I was here I was on an awkward first date. The food went as well as the date did - fine but not worthy of a repeat performance.Now, a year later, after a month of social media buzz, I found myself lured here once again with the promise of a good time.Mzongwana has created publicity with her pop-up restaurant series, Off the Wall, in which she cooks her way around the world one country at a time. These events have garnered a cult following of food enthusiasts, who praise her for incorporating techniques and recipes from the country she's celebrating that day with local flavours and traditional ingredients.Today the new summer menu she's designed has a focus closer to home and is an ode to simple local fare with big flavour (and reasonable prices).Local ingredients take centre stage. The falafel bowl is packed full of chakalaka, beetroot mayo, salsa and avo. The magical mageu shake allows the sour tang of the traditional drink to thicken and perfectly balance the sweeter flavours of fresh bananas and caramel. For those less inclined to experiment, there's a fantastic cheeseburger with tangy pickles - so juicy the sauce runs down your fingers. Or try the all-day breakfast triple-storey toastie with a fried egg, grilled tomato, onion mushroom salsa, green Tabasco and smashed avo.But the star dish is the crispy grilled chicken thigh espetadas coated in cumin, coriander, paprika, chilli flakes, oregano, salt and brown sugar, sitting on a thick smoked-salt flatbread.Mzongwana's new menu will breathe even more life into this beloved hot spot with food that is good enough to hop on the Gautrain for (the cafe is only 750m from Hatfield station).Try it for yourself at +27 Café, 525 Jan Shoba Road, Hatfield, 012-362-4975. Catch Mzongwana's latest Off The Wall pop-up this weekend: her Big Fat Greek Lunch, tickets R380, e-mail angke@plus27design.com NEED TO KNOWWHAT TO EATEverything, but make sure you order the potato salad as a side order for the table. The combo of chunky soft potatoes, bacon and baby spinach is a winner with whatever you have, but the aioli makes it good enough to scoff down on its own.WHAT TO DRINKSmoothies full of fresh fruit and the occasional spike of ginger beer.WHO YOU'LL SEECool, hip and well-dressed Pretoria kids, foreigners from the embassies in the area, and possibly local favourite house DJs who took the train from Jozi to follow the hype - and said it was worth it.WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T ...Be afraid to try the dishes with lesser-known flavour combinations - it's not half as scary as you think but rather doubly delicious.DON'T LEAVE WITHOUTChecking out the quiche flavour of the day. It changes constantly but if you see a slice of the boerewors quiche, grab it.SOUNDTRACKThe clacking of laptop keys, summer birds, laughter and, once a month, a jazz band in the courtyard...

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