Restaurant Review: For the culture vultures

13 May 2015 - 02:21 By Kim Maxwell

Culture Club Cheese is hard to miss with its yellow paint splashed over a characterful building, and repurposed wood tables on a Bree Street pavement. Inside, a faux wheel of Parmigiano forms an eye-catching light but the star attraction is a fridge filled with local artisanal boerenkaas and buffalo mozzarella, French Morbier, Comté and Camembert de Normandie.Cheese maker Luke Williams worked briefly for Fairview, but you won't find his own cheese on sale yet. Trading with wife Jessica, he's focused on fermenting gut-healthy products (sauerkraut, ginger and carrot gut shots, and kefir-fermented milk drinks mixed with berries) for now.One week in, various cheese sandwiches formed about a third of the single-page breakfast and lunch menu. There was a tendency towards unpasteurised cheese and natural, free-range charcuterie, poultry and meat.Quality and flavours are good at Culture Club Cheese, but portions are small. A sourdough toastie made a good shared snack, sandwiching melted Myst Hill Cheddar with walnuts, caramelised onion and apple butter in a nutty ending.A delightful plate of lentils merged mellow curry spice with crunchy garlic and onion under a vibrant tomato sauce, but topping it with only one halved Toulouse-style Cederberg pork sausage seemed stingy.Worth having is the excellent Caesar salad, in which kale leaves replace the classic cos. Satisfyingly different with a perfectly poached egg, walnuts, optional chicken breast pieces and croutons, under Myst Hill yoghurt whipped into a creamy, anchovy-salted emulsion.The menu is sugar-free, with coconut sugar or stevia-derived substitutes used in cheesecake or gluten-free biscuits.Save a dateWhat to eatCheese sandwiches or toasties on sourdough.When to goPavement tables create sunny breakfast or lunch-time spots to catch up with chatty friends.Who to takeCheese-lovers and others keen on flavourful savoury dishes.What not to doGet impatient about service. They're new.What to drinkJuice, deluxe coffee or tangy, gut-healthy milk-fermented kefir drinks.Whatever you doBuy cheese.How muchSandwiches from R55; risotto and salads R45 to R75; Banting breakfast or sausage and lentils R70.The verdictAn incomplete but promising menu, and great cheese to go.Culture Club Cheese,215 Bree Street, Cape Town. Tuesdays to Fridays 8am to 5pm; Saturdays 9am to 4pm. 072-428-9572..

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