Suit Up: Sartorially yours, sir

31 March 2016 - 02:17 By Rea Khoabane

A man's sartorial style is often defined by the cut and fit of the suit he wears. This could be the reason so many women admire Harvey Spectre (real name Gabriel Macht), star of the legal drama series Suits. Local suit designer Linda Makhanya, 31, creates the kind of suits that make women fall in love with the wearer. In the few years he's been making suits, he's attracted cabinet ministers such as Malusi Gigaba, Fikile Mbalula and Bheki Cele, as well as prominent local businessmen.The designer says his biggest inspiration is iconic designer Tom Ford.His LM Tailored label started in 2012 when Makhanya realised that his clients struggled to find suits they loved."I'd been in the fashion industry since 2008 and noticed that many of my clients were struggling to find well-structured suits built for their African bodies. I saw a gap in the market, " he says. ''I noticed how bad our men look at weddings and on national platforms, such as at the State of the Nation Address."The table in his studio apartment is filled with fabric sample books and measuring tapes. But his suits aren't made locally, they're made in Italy.''We don't have proper suit tailors here who understand the quality, the structure and the stitching; hence I also source fabrics in Italy and England," he says."It takes eight people to complete a 100% handmade suit - each part of the suit requires a different skill." Makhanya takes measurements, decides on the fabric and style and sends his designs to Italy where the suit is made in four to six weeks.''South African men can afford to wear Italian suits, but they tend to be built for European bodies. Our men have bellies and broad shoulders," he says. "I use myself as the face of the brand, because I reflect the kind of man I dress - a man who loves quality, earns a good income, is well travelled and has experienced good design."He advises his clientele to buy a suit in a neutral colour like grey, black or navy at first before exploring brighter colours.Would LM Tailored ever participate in fashion weeks?''I'm not big on following trends," he says. "I pay attention to detail. If I showed at fashion week, my suits would have to be ready for mass production."Makhanya says this season's trends include scotch fabrics, double-breasted waistcoats and bold colours. But, he says, a grey suit remains the cornerstone of a man's wardrobe.Makhanya has a studio in Sandton where clients consult him in privacy and comfort.For a premium, tailored suit from his line, expect to part with at least R16 000.Book a fitting at lmtailoredsuit.com..

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