Pride and plated patriotism

07 March 2013 - 02:29 By Jackie May
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Margot Janse of Le Quartier Français treated Brazilian chef Alex Atala to proudly South African flavours
Margot Janse of Le Quartier Français treated Brazilian chef Alex Atala to proudly South African flavours
Image: GARY STEMMETT/SDR PHOTO

Brazilian chef Alex Atala was the favourite speaker of many who attended the Design Indaba last week. Le Quartier Français chef Margot Janse cokked for her friend in Franschhoek

How did you meet?

I MET Alex for the first time in London at the San Pellegrino Top 50 restaurant awards in 2006. I spoke to him as I was going to cook in Brazil in 2007 and we wanted to eat at DOM, which we did, and it was extremely inspiring. Alex invited us to his home the next day because he was having a get-together with friends.

What makes Alex one of the greatest chefs in the world? And why do you admire him?

Alex is proudly Brazilian and uses "new" ingredients from the Amazon and combines them with traditional and new techniques, creating a unique cuisine. I admire him for his integrity, humility and passion. I have eaten at DOM a number of times and always leave inspired. The way Alex feels about Brazil is the way I so strongly feel about South Africa.

What did you prepare for him on Friday night?

We served Alex a 10-course surprise menu, filled with our beautiful indigenous ingredients, kapokbos, nastergal, num num, eugenia, buchu, vygies, baobab, honeybush and much more.

What was his response to the food?

He was blown away.

Did you convince him that there is a South African local flavour?

I did not need to convince him but, yes, I certainly let him taste it. It is a pity we are not doing our own country enough justice. Every foreign chef (and tourist) asks me why there aren't more chefs celebrating the amazing produce of this land. We need to listen and be proud.

WHO IS ALEX ATALA?

Atala, 44, is a Brazilian chef who runs DOM restaurant in São Paulo.

He is a former punk-loving drug addict.

He cooks using local flavours and ingredients from the Amazon.

He serves ants on top of pineapples and eats flowers meant for perfume.

Wall Street Journal has referred to Atala as "the most interesting man in the world".

Buchu, Atala says, most symbolises the quintessential South African flavour.

DOM was rated the fourth-best restaurant in the world last year by the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants.

Mqondisi Gumede tweeted after hearing him speak: "Not since Pele has the beauty and brilliance of Brazil been shared so magnificently. You are to food what Pele is to football."

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