World's highest toyi-toyi

The Nepalese government agreed yesterday to compensation for Mount Everest Sherpas after the deadliest avalanche on the world's highest mountain killed at least 13 guides.

Expedition leaders said tension was running high at Everest base camp after Friday's avalanche, which has rekindled debate on the disproportionate risks that Sherpas take helping foreign mountaineers reach the 8850m summit.

Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, said that though some Sherpas had proposed suspending work for the rest of this climbing season they had now agreed to resume expeditions on Saturday.

But an American climber at base camp said the Sherpas had voted to head down and were packing up.

"The ice doctors who set the routes say the current route is too dangerous and there are no alternative routes," said Ed Marzec in an e-mail.

"In addition, Lama Geshe told his people that they should not go to the summit because more will die," Marzec added, referring to the Buddhist guru who gives his blessing to Everest climbers.

Several expeditions have been called off.

The Nepal government said the minimum insurance cover for Sherpas on Everest would be raised by 50% to about $15000 and it would establish a relief fund for bereaved families and pay for the education of their children.

In addition to the 13 Sherpas killed on the Khumbu icefall, one of the most dangerous parts of the climb to Everest, three are missing and at least three are being treated for serious injuries in the capital, Kathmandu.

The government initially announced an immediate payment of $400 to families to cover funeral costs.

After a meeting on Sunday, Sherpas with 31 expeditions to their credit demanded $10000 in compensation for families and a doubling of insurance cover for climbs. They threatened protests if their demands were not met.

Until now there has been no provision for government compensation for Sherpas hired by expeditions to carry gear. These groups have in the past provided financial assistance on their own in the case of accidents.

South African Saray Khumalo said on Facebook yesterday that she and fellow climber Sibusiso Vilane were "holding out", waiting at base camp for the outcome of Sherpa-government negotiations before deciding if they will try to summit or return home. - Reuters, staff reporter