Restaurant Review: Taste of Africa

13 April 2016 - 02:17 By Seth Shezi

While the buzz around chef Ryan Smith of Ryan's Kitchen has been simmering for quite some time, it is with his latest menu that he proves he's ready to break out of his shell and celebrate his alluring finesse with convivial pride.The gastronomic journey begins with an elaborate bread offering, highlighting a delicious gamut of local loaves.In fine dining sometimes celebrating African flavours can lend itself to the precarious balance of showcasing our local cuisine without ever stepping into the gimmicky tourist-centric territory. At Ryan's Kitchen, Smith uses updated French cooking methods to honour local produce in a way that displays dexterity and a burning desire to reinvent and excite.Venison doesn't get more inventive than a Springbok loin with squid ink jus, pepper and garlic cream, roast onions and wilted "bright lights"; the execution and taste sensation of the dish is equally complex.In sharp contrast to the whimsical and showy presentation of the courses, the decor at Ryan's Kitchen is muted, firmly planted in contemporary Parisian simplicity.Relocated from a small 10-table restaurant to Place Vendôme about a year ago, Ryan and partner Lana have turned the beautiful heritage building, which Ryan refers to as the "white elephant", into a noble oasis fit for patrons to indulge in a delectable meal by a chef who is stepping into the spotlight he deserves.Monday to Saturday, lunch 12:30 - 2.30pm; dinner 6:30pm - late; soon to be open for afternoon snacks and drinks. You can find Ryan's Kitchen in Franschhoek at No1, Place Vendôme, Huguenot Road. Bookings are advisable. Call (021) 876 4598 or e-mail info@ryanskitchen.co.za. For further information visit www.ryans-kitchen.co.zaSave a dateWhat to eatFor starters the seared tuna with fennel kimchi, lemon and rooibos whipped jelly and ginger granita paired with the Two Dogs, a Peacock & a Horse Sauvignon Blanc from Black Elephant Vintners, and the pan-fried seabass with a carrot and peanut puree.What to drinkChoose the wine pairing to widen your palate to smaller, lesser known vineyards.When to goThe frameless windows offer views of the Klein Drakensberg mountains during lunch. For dinner be sure to catch the golden sun as it sets behind the mountains.What not to doDon't misconstrue the waiting staff's aloof demeanour, we figured our waitress was just nervous. And the service is superb.Whatever you doDon't even think about overlooking the dessert section - the plum soufflé with liquorice ice-cream is amazing.How much?The four-course Chef's Selection is R465, or R665 including wine pairing.The verdict?It's a foodies' paradise. The creativity of the dishes is astounding...

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